cyberwolfie

joined 2 years ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 15 minutes ago* (last edited 14 minutes ago)

ETA: Hm, how thick do you think the walls would have to be?

Oh, that could be a much better solution. How would you design the reservoir filling system in that case? It would be difficult accessing the rear reservoirs directly, but I could maybe make something with cheap PVC-pipes. Ideally I would fill it from only one point, and I eventually plan to have some sensors measuring the water level in the reservoir(s)

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 hour ago

Did you try FreeCAD after v1.0 release? I heard it got more intuitive with the release. I would prefer to stick to FOSS tools, and Fusion360 does also not seem to have a native Linux version?

But yeah, it is the impression I have gotten that FreeCAD is not very easy to get started with and why I thought to stick with what I know (Blender) for my first project.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 hour ago (2 children)

Thanks!

This is pretty darn ambitious for a starter project. I say this as someone who is trying to get some fancy new 3D printable tomato cages going before the plants get tall and dangerous and I’ve been doing this for a while.

Yeah, I realize it is ambitious, but my inexperience is perhaps making me think this will be doable from the get-go when it's really not? We'll see... I have a limited time before it no longer makes much sense to pursue this this year, so at some point I will need to cut my losses if I haven't gotten anywhere.

So you really probably want to de-complicate this, either by only making planters that are sized for the printer or finding a existing planter that’s the right size but not self-watering and designing just the self-watering part. You’ll probably learn a lot about the right way to do one this year and then next year you can attack the next generation of the planters.

The design itself will be quite uncomplicated: a bottom container which will hold the water, and then some plates that will hold the soil, supported by the cups that will be submersed into the water that will be packed with soil and perforated to allow absorption. I was planning on lining these plates with some soil fabric so I could keep them loose, only with holes cut out for the cups. The reservoir will be filled through a PVC-pipe that leads from the top and down to the reservoir. I will then build this in with wooden panels (loose, as I otherwise would be unable to get the whole thing inside the shelf where these will go).

One of my big problems last year was finding anything of the right dimensions already existing. They will need to fit inside the shelf.

The problem with printing in pieces is that you are going to have to make sure that the joints are strong enough for the weight of the soil. This is why using a ready-made outer container might help. In the same way, what you really want is something finger-ish or jigsaw-ish so that the pieces align themselves more easily and interlock.

The soil container will have a quite broad base compared to the height. The plates that will hold up the soil will be supported by these cups as described above, and I can make these cups as broad as I need. Are PLA or PETG not particularly strong?

How do people achieve these interlocking patterns - standard tools in the software, plugins or do you do this manually?

You will probably want a fatter nozzle, otherwise this is going to take forever to print.

Oh, good point I didn't think about, and adding this to be research list. I guess it is delivered with a 0.6mm nozzle.

PETG seems to have worked fairly well for me for outdoor stuff? Coating or paint or whatnot is handy. You might want to look at the epoxy family? If you can print on the balcony, you might consider ASA which is totally fine for outdoor use with no paint.

Cheers! Two suggestions for PETG, so I should probably order some filament already! And adding epoxy to my research list, thanks :) Printing on the balcony will unfortunately not be an option for now.

FreeCAD is a bit of a learning curve? The thing that FreeCAD would make easier is a parametric model, where you say that you want a 400 x 400 x 300 planter. Except that if you are really serious about making large self-watering planters that are parametric, you are going to end up wanting to write code to make it all happen, which either means the Python in FreeCAD, the Python in Blender, or maybe just use OpenSCAD.

I will need to look into parametric modelling it seems. Python I am very familiar with, so making use of that in modelling would in any case be a good skill to acquire. My instinct was just to add a mesh in Blender and resize to my desired dimensions and that would be good enough. My tolerance for the outer parts here is quite high, but for the joints I would want higher precision. OpenSCAD I have not heard about, so I will check out that.

The dimensions of the planter would be 120x40x40 cm ish (based on eyesight from where I am sitting).

One avenue, which is also too big of an ask for this season, is making a multi-part model to cast the large pieces in concrete.

Oh, interesting - that is far from anything I've considered. But yeah, not quite something I would be ready to tackle for this season.

Another avenue would be to just design around the outside being wood and the 3D printed parts being brackets and jigs and connectors and the self-watering bits.

It is not that far from what I am going for actually, but the self-watering parts is basically a water reservoir, so it would need to be a water-tight container. Had I only been able to find boxes of proper dimensions where I live, I would not even consider trying to 3D-print this. But they are either too tall, too deep or not long enough.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 hour ago (3 children)

Ambitious early project.

Hehe yeah, I would have gone with something else as my first project had it not been for the fact that I want these planters soon. I had hoped to get the printer earlier, but after asking for advice on my printer purchase here end of last year, I got a compelling advice to at least wait for first reviews before deciding, and by that time Prusa had a backlog on orders.

I’d probably go with petg.

Due it to being outdoors?

There are plenty of good tutorials / suggestions for general water tightness with regards to slicer settings. Water tight joints will be tricky. Consider sanding and then torching them. I’ve had good results with clearcoat spray after sanding pla. May work with petg too.

Nice, will check that out in more details! Are clearcoats typically non-toxic? Torching the joints sounds like a good idea - what would you typically use for that, a standard crème brûlée burner? I plan on making smaller prototypes to test out any concepts out before making a huge one.

Curious why you didn’t go with xl for this? Cost?

Cost is one major reason, the Core One was at the top-end of my budget, but it is not the only one. The Core One otherwise fit my requirements very well, and the XL would also not be able to print this in one go. This is by far the largest pieces I have planned on printing, and all the other prints on my "todo"-list will fit in it just fine. I wanted one with an enclosure, and I didn't like the look of the XL with an enclosure, as it will be quite visible where it will be placed, and I'm the kind of person who would care. And I also believe the footprint of the XL is larger? In that case, I am not so sure if it would even fit on the designated space for it.

 

I am getting my first 3D-printer (a Prusa CORE One) this week! I have tons of ideas that I want to get started with, but the most time-sensitive one is to make some self-watering planters for my balcony (so I can have time to grow some greens in the season). I wanted to do this without a 3D-printer last year, but I could never find any cases close to the right dimensions in the stores, and making the separator between the water reservoir and soil from off-the-shelf parts was not so easy with the cases I did find, so I hope I am able to make something functioning with my 3D-printer this year.

But I'm new to this, and I am looking for some advice to where to get started reading up on different concepts that will be relevant to this project. These are the things I am planning to dive into over the next weeks, and I am sure there are plenty of things I have not thought about at all:

  1. Splitting and joining 3D-printed objects: The overall base area of the planter is too large for my 3D-printer to do in one go, and I am likely going to need four parts that I need to fuse together. I am thinking there are many "standard" ways of doing this, such as splitting with a jigsaw-puzzle pattern? I am also planning to simply glue to the parts together along the seam, and add an additional layer of glue along the boundary. Which leads to concerns about...

  2. Water tightness: I know that making watertight prints is not the easiest thing in the world. The container should be able to contain water without leakage, and I am planning on reading up on all the ways to make the prints themselves as impermeable to water as possible. I am sure there are much to learn in terms of slicer settings here. In addition, I will look into different coatings I can finish it up with, such as a layer of water-proof wood glue. However, the water here will be absorbed by the soil and then by the plant's roots, so this coating should be non-toxic.

  3. Material choice: To begin with, I will only have PLA available, but I can get other filaments if needed. There are two immediate concerns I have about this: whether it is food-safe (for the same reason as above) and whether it is suitable for outdoors use. It will not be in direct sunlight, as I will build a wooden case around these 3D-printed containers, but the planters themselves will be, so it could get a little hot during Summer. Any other considerations I need to make?

  4. Modelling the parts: I am already familiar with Blender, and planned on using it for the first project. I have FreeCAD installed, but zero experience. The shapes are simple, and I am sure I can draw up something in Blender in no time. But since I want to split them up, and join them ideally as flush as possible, will the models be precise enough? Dimensional precision is the main reason I've heard for using CAD-software over Blender for hobby basis.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Viewing the comments in Jerboa, it seems the comment you answered was never edited, which would have been indicated by a "time since edit"-timestamp in parantheses.

[–] [email protected] 9 points 3 days ago

It's because it defaults to clearing cookies on exit. You can turn that off, or make exceptions for sites you login to regularly and don't mind keeping cookies for.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 week ago

What FOSS CAD-tools are being boycotted?

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

I'll be getting my 3D-printer soon, and I plan on learning FreeCAD for that purpose!

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago (4 children)

Out of curiosity, what is stopping you?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

I use mine for bulk backups of certain things, but the lack of a Linux desktop sync client makes it not useable for my needs.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 weeks ago

I've always used the web browser on desktop for it, also on Splitwise, so I don't have experience with mobile here. But there's an Android app developed by the same developer IIRC

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

I've used a wallet from Exentri for many years. I think they are Swedish.

 

I frequently use KRunner to do simple sums when doing my accounting. I keep a ledger with numbers formatted as e.g. 1,000.00. My system settings in KDE for number formatting under Region & Language is set to British English, i.e. the way I want it. However, whenever I copy a sum from KRunner, e.g. "1000.25 + 1000.25", it is copied as "2000,5" (i.e. no thousands-delimiter, wrong decimal point and only one decimal number). It gets a bit annoying to change this manually.

I can't seen to find any specific settings for this in KRunner or the Calculator plugin, and I would expect it to respect KDE's own settings.

Does anyone know how to force KRunner to do my bidding here?

 

I have a set of Samsung washer and dryer that can be hooked up to Samsung SmartThings. I have no interest in making a Samsung account and having my washers and dryers communicate with anything outside of my network.

But since it has some kind of "smart" functionality, I was wondering whether anyone has been able to get this information without ever onboarding it with SmartThings?

Both machines set up their own WPA2-protected WiFi network when running.

 

I have a server running Debian that has been connected to WiFi for a long time, but I have since moved it and given it a wired connection. It still seems to be using WiFi though, and in my router settings it shows up as connected through WiFi and not through ethernet.

Now I want to make sure that I can switch over from WiFi to ethernet directly from an ssh-connection so I won't have to connect a screen to get direct access.

What is my best bet here? A lot of the tools I find used for different network operations are not pre-installed, and I don't want to be installing just everything being suggested. Can I solve this by installing network-manager and using nmcli?

EDIT: I also want to disable the wireless card.

EDIT2: No eth-interface shows up when running ip link show, EDIT3: but r8169 0000:02:00.0 enp2s0: renamed from eth0 shows up in dmesg and enp2s0 shows up in ip link show, so I guess it is recongized then.

[SOLVED] EDIT4: I made the modifications manually in etc/network/interfaces, and now it seems to work. I entered the following lines:

auto enp2s0
iface enp2s0 inet dhcp

And then it showed up in my router. I then continued to comment out the lines enabling the wireless interface, and after reboot it works fine still.

 

SOLVED: BananaTrifleViolin's post contains the solution.

Flatseal won't start by itself anymore, which is a known issue. I got it running by running

GSK_RENDERER=gl com.github.tchx84.Flatseal

and inspired by a response in the above linked issue, I wanted to add GSK_RENDERER=gl as a variable in Flatseal so I could open it without having to manually run this in the terminal.

However, I seem to have screwed that up, and written GSK_RENDERER=ng instead, because the application still won't run, and now I get the following output anytime I try to open it by the method above:

(com.github.tchx84.Flatseal:2): Gsk-WARNING **: 22:09:54.997: Unrecognized renderer "ng". Try GSK_RENDERER=help
MESA-INTEL: warning: ../src/intel/vulkan/anv_formats.c:782: FINISHME: support YUV colorspace with DRM format modifiers
MESA-INTEL: warning: ../src/intel/vulkan/anv_formats.c:814: FINISHME: support more multi-planar formats with DRM modifiers
Gdk-Message: 22:09:55.406: Error 71 (Protocol error) dispatching to Wayland display.

However, I can't for the life of me seem to correct this. I've tried running the above command again, I've tried overriding it with flatpak:

flatpak override --env=GSK_RENDERER=gl com.github.tchx84.Flatseal

(which yielded a "permission denied", and nothing happening after running with sudo)

I've reinstalled the applications several times, including removing the config files from ~/.var/app/com.github.tchx84.Flatseal and checked that /var/app/ does not contain any config files.

I just want to reset the user input changes I made to this flatpak and start over, but I'm getting no where...

 

After a fairly hassle-free year or so with this Epson ET-2815 printer, the cyan now won't print at all (no lines, no nothing - printing a full cyan page just yields white). I believe the print head is fully clogged and I want to perform a print head cleaning. I need the epson-printer-utility to do so (available from here, manual here), which I did not set up when I initially set up the printer.

I have installed epson-printer-utility as instructed and run it through the terminal, but I am met with a error message saying "The printer was not found". The printer is otherwise found on the network and configured in CUPS, and I can print just fine with it (up until the cyan channel now doesn't work anymore).

I ran across this old post suggesting that the udev-rule is copied over to /etc/udev/rules.d, but the installation process seems to have taken care of that already.

This print head function is also available through this god-awful mobile app that I had to use to set it up, but now the app also cannot find the printer, even though I try to connect directly to the IP. I have ensured that my phone is on the same network as the printer, but alas.

This happened straight after I set up the integration in Home Assistant, but I imagine this is just a coincidence. I last used the printer just over a month ago.

Anyone have any experience dealing with this?

 

After a system start today, I was suddenly prompted with KDE Wallet requiring a password. I have not needed this before, and I could not seem to enter a password it would accept ("Error code -9: Read error - possibly incorrect password."). I can't remember setting this up, but it might have been something I did when I first set up my system. However, I would either have remembered it or stored the password in my main password manager, and there is no trace of it there.

To fix this, I created a new wallet and set that to be the default. Now, it works, and it is generally fine as it was not used for much, but I have one big issue: Signal used kwallet as its credentials manager, and now I can't open the Signal database.

Before I accept my losses and recreate the database from scratch, I wanted to know if anyone have experienced anything similar, and if there are some tips to restoring the original keychain? As I said, I don't know the password, so my guess is that I'm outta luck...

 

I've been waiting to finish up with some major life stuff before diving into the world of 3D printers. Now that is finally behind me, and I am currently trying to find out which printer I want so that I can place an order.

So far I've set my eyes on the new Prusa CORE One. It ticks a lot of the boxes that I think I am after, including:

  • As open as I can get (before going into that Voron-stuff, which I think I'm not ready for). I don't want to be bogged down with having to run proprietary slicers through Wine and things like that. I am not sure how big of an issue that is with e.g. Bambu or Creality (if at all), but I've seen enough rug-pulls and enshittification processes that I don't really want to risk that. I want to be sure that I can use FOSS tools such as Blender and FreeCAD for design, and similarly open slicers, and the whole workflow will work just fine.
  • As future-proof as I can possibly hope for. I think the upgrade path from the MK4 to CORE One shows that they are serious about sustainability and longevity of their devices, and as far as I can tell, I should have no troubles sourcing replacement parts. I also want to support companies with this philosophy.
  • Has a decent print volume (I know there are bigger, maybe I will be constrained by this at some point?)
  • Enclosed - a major reason I did not want the MK4S was that it was not enclosed (but maybe you can get an enclosure?). It will be placed in my study where I spend most of my computer time (which often times is a lot, so I imagine I will be in the room while it is printing). I imagine, with the additional filter, that it will be better with an enclosure. Also, it will be easier to keep good temperature control during prints, as it can get cold here during winter.
  • Locally produced (I'm EU based).

I understand that other manufacturers provide more "bang for the buck" and that I in that sense will be overpaying feature-wise. I am fine with that given my emphasis on the above criteria.

However, I am a complete newbie to 3D-printing. I am sure there are some limitations I have not thought about, and I was wondering if there are any major things I have not thought about that would actually affect me negatively and should make me reconsider this model?

 

I've been stressing out for some hours now, but I think I know what has happened, although there are still some things that's not quite adding up, and was hoping someone could help me get to the bottom of it. The actual question is at the bottom.

First some background I'm self-hosting Nextcloud on a Linode, and was notified that the public out network traffic exceeded my set threshold. I first assumed that I've had a breach on my server, but could find no trace of someone logging in. The reason I now feel at least somewhat easier is:

  1. No sign of anyone ssh-ing in successfully before the time this happened from /var/logs/auth.log (I guess this is not hard to cover though...)
  2. ssh through root is disabled - they would have to know my username and my password, which should not be brute-forceable, and the way it's stored in my password manager does not immediately allow linking the two (although, if my password manager is compromised I don't know what to do). I have no other signs that this has been compromised, and I think my Nextcloud-server would be a weird place to start if they had access to it all.
  3. I have 2FA on my Linode account, so accessing root (which also has a different and not easily brute-forceable password) through LISH should also be difficult.
  4. The amount of traffic (based on the average network traffic Linode reported) amounts to several times the total data stored on the server. I would expect a malicious actor to grab everything once, and not spend more time than necessary to needlessly duplicate the data.

What I now think happened instead is that my desktop client has resynced everything several times over. The reasons I think this:

  1. The network activity started more or less when I opened my laptop this morning
  2. The desktop client was for some reason entered twice in the autostart, causing two version of the client to be started at the same time. This caused some conflicts today - when I noticed this and resolved these, I quit the second instance, and that is about the time the network activity stopped
  3. The same thing happened later today, which caused a spike in CPU-usage on the server, but did not trigger the same network traffic as the desktop client seems to have crashed quickly after.

The actual question However, the last piece of the puzzle that I can't figure out that still has me somewhat nervous: the maximum outbound transfer speed greatly exceeds my download speed (about 4 times). From the graph, it seems as though it maintains this high speed, but it seems to maybe just log the maximum value every five minutes, so maybe these are just spikes? The reported average over the two hours this occurred more or less matches my maximum download speed however, although I don't really think I can get that from where I am sitting on my WiFi.

Is this the glove that doesn't fit?

28
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I'm running Jellyfin on a Debian-server in my home, and I have the associated media folders set up as samba shares so that I can transfer any new media from my laptop to the server through Dolphin (KDE file manager).

This has for the most part worked very well (except slow speeds), but I've had an issue recently where the files are not copied over properly. This resulted in glitches in for example music files that would stop playback. I checked the checksums of some of these files, and they were different from source. Seems like the glitchy files are missing some data, but at no point were I notified about this. It works fine after I removed the files and transferred again, and now the checksums match.

Is this a common issue with samba, or could it be a sign that my HDD is acting up?

10
submitted 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I use Jellyfin for my music collection, and sometimes the album artist and artist fields for the same artist will be populated slightly differently. For instance, I have one case where there are three different ways using &, 'and' and +. I have removed these from my library, updating them with manually with MusicBrainz Picard to use the same spelling, and reuploaded them to my server. However, it uses the old metadata still.

Is there a way to efficiently reset metadata for only certain albums so that these three instances are merged and I can access all three albums from the same album artist?

EDIT: So I managed to get this working now. What worked in the end (unsure if all steps are necessary) was to remove all the files from the server, run a rescan, delete all the albums (they would still be in Jellyfin with a blurred album cover), rescan again, and now the artists would be gone. When I added the albums again, the new metadata would be used.

 

I am contemplating buying one of the Seagate OneTouch Hub external hard drives as a backup for my media that's currently stored on some other external hard drives connected to my home server since they are always spinning.

My local retailers don't give me many options as far as large storage storage solution goes, and the only other viable option now is a WD My BOOK 14 TB.

However, the retailer I will be buying it from goes out of its way to state that Windows or macOS is required. Is there any reason I should believe that I will run into troubles under Linux? I've had no issues whatsoever with some other Seagate hard drives (Expansion 5 TB), which I just instantly reformat to ext4 and use as normal. My guess is that this is just for the included software? I just want to make sure before I order.

(More long term I will set up a NAS, but for now time to learn and configure is more scarce than money, so I just want a solution that will prevent me from losing my data)

EDIT: For anyone coming to this later wondering the same thing, I can confirm that it works just fine. It is just the included backup software that is not compatible. I've formatted it to ext4 and currently using rsync to backup my media.

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