Probably not because legally nothing happened to them...
It all got "dismissed with prejudice" so they got off completely consequence-free at the end of 2025.
That means it is pretty much legal and free game to do it, at least in the shithole USA lol. Hence why everyone is now doing it. Capital one just made a browser clone that does the same thing too.
Probably will quickly come here to the EU too...
For this application, I am hoping reflective LCDs make a comeback or transreflective LCDs. They are much better for typing than e-ink and still easy on the eyes.
Early apple devices were quite decent out in the sun with the glass screen and transreflective LCDs. I remember my old devices were quite usable even with the not great brightness if I angled it to reflect the sun nicely.
Waveshare just released a fully reflective monochrome small one with an integrated ESP32 so I am hoping that catches on in the hobbyist communities and people can start building tech decks with bigger screens that aren't 800€ and a 1Hz refresh rate.
E-paper is amazing for static text, images (see pimorino screens with E-Ink 6color), labels, and status things, but fast typing and drawing makes them outrageously expensive for hobbyists and even very expensive at large scale like Boox and Remarkable.
I think it is possible, but would require a ton of trace cutting and wire bodging, even the higher current traces which is never great.
An interconnect PCB (or one per channel) might be your best bet if your current PCB is too complex to reorder and resolder. Getting it done at a cheap board house like Aisler, oshpark, jlcpcb, etc...
Design it to solder to the required pads with castellated half holes, then you can solder the new parts on top of the interconnect board, and that is also easier if you have a proto batch of 5-10.
It is only helpful for pour over coffee. I have one, I love it.
But 99% of people are not big coffee people and have no need for it and a 20€ Phillips heats up just as fast, has the main 70/80/90/100 degree settings, and is fine for tea, cups of soup, etc...
It is a waste of money if you are not a pour over coffee person or really high end teas.
We print with PC at work because we need the best resistance (inside a hot motor). It has significantly better heat resistance than ABS/ASA (113°C heat deflection or higher sometimes vs ASA 93°) and not crazy expensive.
It also doesn't warp nearly as much as ABS just in a little tent or enclosure. Glue stick for release on a smooth bed.
The cops were (and still are) the ones doing the lynching, whether off-duty in white hoods or on duty lol
200€ Ebike?? Was this in 1990? The cheapest I know of is 500€..
Unrelated side note, I have gone 10000km with mine, 120km for the 625Wh battery. About 0.3€ per kWh. About 15€ in electricity.
Compared to my diesel VW Passat with diesel 23km/L at lives now of 2€/L is 870€.
I saved 855€ over the past 3 years by biking to work and the store instead of driving, not to mention health benefits.
And shipping containers...
Tons of human trafficking happens via shipping containers, allegedly.
So what are you trying to do? Are you trying to make a constant current source for the lasers or a current limited voltage source?
You are running out of voltage headroom I think Using these sort of voltage regulators as a current regulator forces a 1.25V drop across the resistors used to limit the current there. Then you have 1.5-2.5V between IN and OUT from the Darlington pair in the regulator, then 0.7 across the transistor for a total of 3.45V minimum drop before you get to the laser. That is 1.55V for the laser. It is strange that it works for the green and not the red because normally they both have a minimum of 1.8V.
Can you probe what voltage you are getting with a scope oun the laser input on J6? Profiling the laser voltage would tell you a lot.
I there are a few ways you can go with this. Since you are burning a ton off as heat anyway, just switch to a DAC controlled high side current source with a PMOS FET (+ op amp and sense resistor of course). They can do 130mA easily and have a similar amount of components.
If you want it a bit more accurate or with BJTs, you could do a current source Like described here and adjust it to your values. More components, but it works quite linearly with your DAC outputs from the arduino.
Not a gaming distro but OpenSUSE has Aeon and Kalpa that are arguably more secure with more volumes also being encrypted, focus on btrfs snapshots being reliable vs rpm-ostree style images, etc...
I used it before bazzite 2 years ago or so but it was a worse user experience in most ways even if there are technical benefits for it (steam via flatpak needing hours of figuring out non- documented modifications to get working, GRUB decryption that is not only slow and prone to errors but also doesn't show characters typed for a long passphrase and fails after the first try, volume mounting errors every other boot so booting would fail, and layering being worse than Fedora at the time, etc...)
And nobody can argue that openSUSE doesn't have the most fun mascot/logo haha.
(They probably don't exist)
The product companies may have European owners but I believe pretty much all if their electronics and plastics manufacturing will be in China. For those small motors probably also in China. Europe has mostly industrial motors and industrial/medical electronics fab/assembly and plastics (maybe some of the chips would be infineon/stm/NXP though).