BillTheTailor

My 3D printer is an FLSun 3D Cube. I really like it, I wish I had a couple more just like it, unfortunately FLSun has moved on to delta printers. The electronics aren't well laid out and, frankly used the cheapest options possible. After owning the printer for five years and trying at least three different layouts - just fucking around - I decided to do it up right.

I'm using Tinkercad to design the components and the layout. I have a public Tinkercad project with all the components I use. You can make copies of any of them here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/edun59eY6AV-components-public/edit

When I'm modeling enclosures for Arduino, I like to have components to work with that match (fairly closely) real life. While the circuit details on some of the pieces might not be completely to the mm accurate, they're close enough to work. Project behind the link.

The fabric on Admiral Marcus' uniform bears the same pattern as the carpet in the Overlook Hotel.

I have several skulls around my shop (no real ones, I'm sorry to say) just sitting on whatever flat surface I could find at the time. I decided to mount them so I'd have my flat surfaces back. This is the first.

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I'm working on a machine that needs five IR sensors to track the edge of a moving loop: position and speed of position change. Since it is 3d printed, the box that'll hold the sensors was designed in Tinkercad, but I also started the design of the PCB that will connect the sensors to the main board.

Tinkercad enabled me to visualize how it would all fit together: I set the spacing of the sensors and their distance from the base, then used those measurements in Fritzing to design the PCB.

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Of all the things I've designed in Tinkercad, this project has been the one to get the most redesigns and that gets the most use. It's a gear set to reduce the output of an appliance motor from 1750rpm to ~100rpm, give or take.

The last set I printed in PLA have probably been run for easily twenty hours in total, about an hour and a half at a time. The early sets were about 30% bigger - for the machine they're made for I can't go any smaller without having to throw in a bunch of extra gears to get all the spacing of the outputs right.

There's some filigree in the two upper gears. I don't have to put that in there, and no one ever sees it, but I like knowing it's there.