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I’m pretty sure I made a dent in my blade. It will be the first time I’ll tried to sharpen it on a wet stone so I’m pretty stressed
I was wondering if a Sharpen Wizard (IIRC it’s the name, it’s a tool with 3 V notch to sharpen knives) will do it.
Other advice will do, like how you find rolling sharpeners, etc.
Take your time, watch videos, and practice on the stone. They are tried and true and if you screw up it's still recoverable! Trust that you can do it!
Rolling sharpeners and gimmicky things like pull through electric or non electric sharpeners do not do enough (for me).
For daily driving i took the leather strop off a worksharp guided field sharpener . Strop comes off because i wash it regularly and the leather doesnt stay good/clean.
If i need more i use wetstones.
I work as a wholesale meat cutter so I really do need sharp knives.
I believe in you!
I like this reply A LAWT. 10/10
Thanks man. It’s appreciated
That was the good advice there!
That's a Scandi grind, which is easier than most knives to sharpen at the correct angle because there is no secondary bevel at the edge, just the wide primary bevel. When sharpening, you keep the whole bevel flat on the stone. That's one of the harder aspects of freehand sharpening, so this knife makes that part easy.
I got one of those cheap rolling guys with a magnet for 15°&20° from Ali Express for like $5 and it is incredibly effective. Maybe not like sub 200 sharp, but definitely a serviceable edge.
Just give it a shot, its very unlikely you will do more damage to it. Take a close look at the blades edge, if its not straight, which happens naturally over time, you can use a honing rod to straighten it out. Then depending on how dull it is you can start with low grit stones/sand paper and move your way up. This also changes with the type of steel the knife is made out of, but generally you can follow the same steps. Holding a steady angle is the only real trick, that and equal pulls on each face of the cutting edge. Knife sharpening tools will help here, but most are such a pain to set up they end up not being worth it. Finishing with a leather strop and some cutting compound will give you the best results. For work tools and things that get messed up quick, or soft steels, I normally use 800grit and move up to 1000 then finish at 1500. For kitchen knives and harder steels I'll only use 800 if they are really messed up and generally go 1000, 3000, 5000. I finish them all the same way with a leather strop and some cutting compound spread on the strop.
Do not, ever, EVER, use knife blunteners like those pull through things. The only way to sharpen a knife is with a stone.
Those V things ruin knifes. Never use them.
I agree with your first statement and disagree with your second.
A lot of V-type sharpeners use tungsten carbide "blades". They don't really file down the steel, they just tear off chunks of it. The jagged gouges they leave are sharp, but irregular and fragile. No one should ever use tungsten carbide sharpeners.
There are also V-type sharpeners that use ceramic rods. Those do not damage blades and can be quite useful for casual sharpeners. They take off metal gradually and smoothly while the shape guarantees a reasonable (if not usually optimal) bevel angle.
You will also see some where the ceramic rods are embedded with diamond dust. You have to pay attention with those, because they can take off metal fairly quickly, but they will not otherwise damage an edge.
There are also powered belt shapeners that speed up the process, but they are much worse than diamond dust rods at taking off a lot of metal quickly. They can be time savers, but they require some experience and a lot of caution.
Finally, there are an amazing variety of specialty sharpening rigs that are designed to make it easier for a casual use to get consistent results. They usually involve some kind of device that maintains a steady bevel angle. Some are quite useful while others are unreliable, or just more trouble than they're worth.
Learning to sharpen with bare stones is generally the most versatile method, but it also takes more time and practice to learn. There's nothing wrong with using tools that eliminate the need for a lot of that practice. Stones may be more satisfying, but a sharp edge is a sharp edge, no matter how you get there.
One thing that needs more emphasis, the pull blunteners change the shape of the blade edge, from a thin wedge to a fat stubby v shape. To return the blade back to optimal condition, a significant amount of material will need to be removed