this post was submitted on 10 Feb 2026
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I’ll be straight with it. I’m a smoker, I smoke inside, I have a PC that is also inside. I want to clean my PC thoroughly to buy it a few more years. I know about the q tip method, and the compressed air, and general methods of cleaning out gunk and junk from PC parts. But this boy is way too gunked up for a regular cleaning. So, I reckon, the easiest way to clean it is to dunk the dirtiest parts in a bath of isopropyl alcohol. I was considering acetone at first, but it’s way too strong of a solvent, and alcohol should be better at dissolving organic residues. Is this a good idea?

I hereby submit this query to the council, and await judgement.

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[–] sefra1@lemmy.zip 2 points 5 hours ago

I think alcohol may dissolve somethings that aren't supposed to be dissolved, I wouldn't risk it. If it's working don't fix it. But if you have to I would use contact spray instead, it's made to be nonconductive and noncorrosive.

[–] SCmSTR@lemmy.blahaj.zone 7 points 7 hours ago

Lol smokers

[–] Bazoogle@lemmy.world 5 points 7 hours ago (1 children)

I want to clean my PC thoroughly to buy it a few more years.

You can buy yourself and your electronics a lot of years by cutting the smoking :)

Technically you could submerge parts in isopropyl alcohol. The concern with liquid is primarily corrosion and causing shortages. If there is no stored electricity in the capacitors, the isopropyl alcohol shouldn't cause any corrosion. It would not be the best way to clean it, in reality, but you could probably do it. I would just spray some on and gently clean it with an old toothbrush.

Smoke, especially cigarette smoke, gets onto everything and is awful to try and clean. I won't buy used electronics used in a smokers home, or much of anything for that matter.

[–] rob_t_firefly@lemmy.world 1 points 5 hours ago

When I used to do computer repair for work I had a hard limit against working on stuff from a smoker's household or office. Not only am I too asthmatic to enjoy spending time in such a place, but the thick sticky crud in every nook and cranny of the machine made any hardware job far more trouble than it was worth to me.

I'm still willing to occasionally be the "computer guy" for certain friends and family, but smokers can figure something else out because I'm not touching it. (And yes, weed smoke counts.)

[–] Doom@lemmy.world 6 points 8 hours ago (1 children)

When I worked at an eltronics recycling center (we repaired and resold PCs and printers) we used isopropyl alcohol in spray bottles to clean pc parts. It worked really well. Don't dunk anything! Just carefully disassemble, spray the part (let the run off fall onto a collection pad), and let it completely dry before reassembly. It may take a few rounds depending on how dirty the part is, resist any temptation to scrub off build up on electrical components. If contaminates absolutely will not come off use a circuit board cleaning "paint brush" with circuit board pcb cleaner to gently clear it or better yet, leave it be. The enemy of good is perfect.

WARNINGS: Wear gloves, eye protection, and a mask. Follow all ESD safety protocols to protect computer parts. If you disassemble the cpu add more thermal paste. DON'T SPRAY THE PSU, if necessary use alcohol on a wash cloth for the PSU exterior. You can speed up dry time by air blowing excess liquid off but be aware this may splatter dirty droplets around the space. Only clean your PC like this in a well ventilated space. Only attempt this if you are comfortable disassembling and reassembling your pc. However long YOU think your computer needs to be fully dry, double that time to be safe.

Also as a bonus. You can put non electric components in the dishwasher. No soap, no heat, as long as they fit and won't get dinged up by moving dishwasher parts. SERIOUSLY DO NOT HEAT DRY OR WASH ON HIGH HEAT.

I also throw my mechanical keyboards in there but there's always a chance they won't work after - so far tho it's been a success (obviously I make sure they are fully dry before I use them . If you attempt this - at your own risk.

[–] village604@adultswim.fan 1 points 7 hours ago (1 children)

But in all reality, spraying the PSU with high concentration IPA is fine so long as you remove it from the power source and mobo, and discharge the caps.

[–] Doom@lemmy.world 3 points 6 hours ago (1 children)

That's true. I usually don't suggest it because when I worked on desktops I developed a philosophy with PSUs of leave them alone if they work and replace them if they don't. In my experience PSUs are extremely tough, and even in the worst conditions rarely failed. It caused more harm then good to mess with them unnecessary.

[–] village604@adultswim.fan 2 points 6 hours ago

That's definitely fair. They do tend to be the most robust electrical component in a desktop.

[–] YeahIgotskills2@lemmy.world 7 points 8 hours ago

Not to jump on the smoking hate train - I get it, smoking is very pleasurable and insanely addictive - but have you thought about just smoking outside?

I would never smoke in a room I spend any time in. It's a funny mindset, as I used to smoke inside in my 20s, but when the ban in bars came along it just sort of became second nature.

These days I rarely smoke, but vape more than I should. The vaping is starting to give me a dry tongue that feels like a fading pizza burn. I plan to stop... Soon....

[–] Smoogs@lemmy.world 19 points 11 hours ago

Wow at this point id more seriously consider to quit smoking or at least stop doing it inside.

[–] ornery_chemist@mander.xyz 3 points 7 hours ago* (last edited 7 hours ago) (1 children)

No dunking, and make sure what you're buying is mostly alcohol (> 95%) and not water/alcohol mixtures often used for disinfection. Using in combination with e.g., a toothbrush is probably your best bet. IPA (and acetone) can strip some adhesives and cause certain kinds of electrical insulation to swell or dissolve, so a targeted approach is better. IPA is flammable (though less so than acetone), so be careful/well ventilated when allowing parts to dry, and ensure parts are fully dried before reconnecting to power.

IPA itself is only about twice as toxic as ethanol and certainly less problematic by inhalation than tar in the long run. I wouldn't bother with a mask mostly because it won't do shit unless it's a cartridge respirator. However, IPA can sometimes facilitate skin absorption. IDK specifically about tar buildup but recommend wearing gloves (disposable nitrile is fine).

[–] filcuk@lemmy.zip 2 points 5 hours ago* (last edited 5 hours ago) (2 children)

I'm confused. Unless it's just worded strangely and I misunderstood; IPA is isopropyl alcohol.

[–] EchoCranium@lemmy.zip 1 points 4 hours ago

IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol = Isopropanol = 2-Propanol. Yeah, there's lots of names for the same thing.

[–] rob_t_firefly@lemmy.world 1 points 4 hours ago

IPA is either isopropyl alcohol or India pale ale. Best to be sure of which alcohol-relevant situation you are in before deciding which to apply.

[–] nagaram@startrek.website 3 points 8 hours ago

As a guy who's cleaned far too many smoker fucked PCs.

99% Isopropyl and a tooth brush is what you need. It won't be fast, but you need that kinda precision and attention to make sure you got everything.

You might also consider just replacing any fans. I don't know if you have a laptop or a desktop, but a laptop fan is a bitch to clean

[–] phoenixz@lemmy.ca 5 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

Mostly just leave it be. The smoke is on the outside and as long as it's visually clean enough it'll be fine.

Make sure that ventilator fans still run smoothly, and as needed, replace those, as cooling is extremely important

[–] cheesybuddha@lemmy.world 1 points 6 hours ago

Don't a lot of modern boards have a sort of clear coating over the components anyway? Some sort of enamel like substance?

[–] AnitaAmandaHuginskis@lemmy.world 0 points 6 hours ago (1 children)

There is an easy solution: Do not smoke in the first place. Problem solved. Not only you do not have to clean your computer so often but you also take care of your body.

Now, it is easier said than done but it is doable.

[–] cheesybuddha@lemmy.world 3 points 6 hours ago

I feel like that's good general advice, but doesn't address the question.

I'm not gonna shame people for their choices, but I guess that's just me.

[–] tal@lemmy.today 4 points 12 hours ago* (last edited 12 hours ago)

I want to clean my PC thoroughly to buy it a few more years.

Is it not working in its present state?

If it's working all right, I'd just leave it be, and if you don't want tar buildup in your next case, get a case that has an air filter on it that you can replace, or run an air purifier with a filter in the room.

[–] ZILtoid1991@lemmy.world 18 points 17 hours ago (1 children)

Isopropyl alcohol damages certain plastics.

[–] Smoogs@lemmy.world 7 points 11 hours ago
[–] Valmond@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

Have you thought about FIRE?

[–] village604@adultswim.fan 1 points 7 hours ago* (last edited 7 hours ago)

~~How is fire relevant?~~

Nvm, I thought you meant it could cause a fire.

[–] SpiceDealer@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 9 hours ago (3 children)

I would highly advise against this! That would be a health and fire hazard waiting to happen. Isopropyl is good for cleaning your electronics but I wouldn't bathe them in it.

If you still want to try submerging your PC in some kind of liquid, you can try mineral oil. This was a trend in PC building back in the early-mid 2010s but seems to have lost momentum around 2017/2018. I've never done this myself so research thoroughly. Other than that, stick to water-cooling.

Also, at the risk of sounding like an asshole, I would advise quitting smoking.

[–] Rakudjo@lemmy.world 2 points 8 hours ago (1 children)

This was a trend in PC building back in the early-mid 2010s but seems to have lost momentum around 2017/2018

From what I recall, it stopped being a fad because outside of the cool factor, it was found to be horribly inefficient (cost/performance) at actually cooling the computer compared to air or water cooling.

[–] cheesybuddha@lemmy.world 1 points 6 hours ago* (last edited 5 hours ago)

I did the math on that a while back, and the one factor I don't hear anyone mention is that you have to cool the liquid/oil as well.

Like, sure, a tank of oil can capture a lot of heat - you could probably max out several GPUs. But once that oil gets hot, it's not going to take anymore heat away from the GPU, and it's going to take a long time for a tank full of oil to cool down enough to provide proper cooling.

You'd basically have to have an additional heat pump unit transferring heat from the oil to the air if you wanted to run things long term (like crypto or whatever). So you're basically just adding in an additional, unnecessary, very messy step.

Maybe datacenters should partner with fast food restaurant and use their waste heat to fry chicken nuggets.

[–] village604@adultswim.fan 1 points 7 hours ago

How would cleaning your computer by dunking it in IPA cause a fire?

[–] Crozekiel@lemmy.zip 1 points 8 hours ago

Their post didn't sound like they were going to RUN it submerged in alcohol... Just dunking in the alcohol to clean it off. I don't think mineral oil is going to help clean the parts much.

[–] Paranoidfactoid@lemmy.world 2 points 10 hours ago* (last edited 10 hours ago)

Now all you need is a lighter, which as a smoker I'm sure you have handy! 💥

[–] EndlessNightmare@reddthat.com 23 points 18 hours ago* (last edited 18 hours ago)

Absolutely no way.

It is dangerous to have a flammable, volatile chemical pooled up like that. It's a fire hazard, not to mention the fumes from it.

Just don't

[–] Tayb@lemmy.world 26 points 1 day ago

Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush. Turn off power to the PC. Hold power button for a minute. Unplug and disassemble. Get one of those chemistry squirt bottles (google lab wash bottle) to put the alcohol in, squirt it on the place to clean, brush with the toothbrush. Repeat until at desired cleanliness. Then take canned air and spray out under all the parts. Allow to dry. It's dry when you can spray under the big components and not get any alcohol out.

I used to assemble, test, repair, and clean PCBs of all shapes and sizes. That's what we did when we had to spot clean a board after a repair.

The jankiest way I've cleaned a PCB was to run it through the dishwasher without detergent, then wash it down with RODI water to demineralize, then alcohol to displace the water. It works, but you gotta be damn sure that you've washed away any mineral deposits and given it plenty of time to dry.

[–] over_clox@lemmy.world 76 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (2 children)

Extreme case story here..

I had a fella bring his computer into our shop for diagnostics and hopefully repair after a house fire. The case was originally light grey, but it was covered outside and even inside with nasty stinking black soot and the front panel was mostly melted.

We checked it out though, the PSU had failed. So we pulled out our test PSU and tried that, and the nasty stinking computer actually booted up!

Well, the boss didn't want to be responsible for this mess, so he told me I could take it as a side job if the customer really wanted it fixed. He already knew that I've successfully salvaged flood damage computers, so why not?

Anyways, I took the motherboard and expansion cards out and took them to our local car wash. I soaked the boards with tire/engine cleaner, then pressure washed the crud away with plain water. Then I used an air compressor to dry it as best as I could, and then left it on the roof of my car in the hot sun for like 4 hours.

Everything worked fine after all that, so I hooked him up with a spare computer case I had laying around to replace his nasty half melted case.

You can actually pressure wash the circuit boards as long as there's no power (do NOT pressure wash the PSU at all!), as long as the boards are completely dry and clean before reassembling and powering it back up. Just, be careful around any sensitive parts, and do not pressure wash the CPU socket, unless you like all your precious pins bent. Also, don't pressure wash the fans or mechanical drives or such.

This technique isn't for the faint of heart though, and I usually only reserve such drastic measures for boards that have already failed due to spill damage, corrosion, or other extremes where the board would otherwise end up in the scrap pile.

[–] village604@adultswim.fan 50 points 1 day ago (1 children)

This is wild because my coworker was just telling me about his parents' desktop that was in a house fire plus all of the water from fighting the house fire. After a week of drying off it booted up without issue.

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[–] Typhoon@lemmy.ca 28 points 1 day ago (13 children)

As bad as your computer looks your lungs are worse.

[–] FreshLight@sh.itjust.works 2 points 6 hours ago

I dead ass though they were smoking ribs inside..

[–] whynotzoidberg@lemmy.world 31 points 1 day ago (2 children)

I’m not here to condone smoking, but OP isn’t here for unsolicited advice either.

[–] ameancow@lemmy.world 9 points 11 hours ago* (last edited 11 hours ago)

You gotta be pretty dense or insane to think you can make a post on the open internet about smoking so much indoors that your computer needs to be submerged in solvent or something to get it clean, and not expect more than half the replies to be addressing the reason it got that way in the first place.

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[–] TheRealKuni@piefed.social 17 points 1 day ago (2 children)

As far as the computer cleaning I have no advice. However, as a former smoker, I do have some other advice:

May I recommend vaping? Not as healthy as quitting nicotine entirely, but the lack of tar all over everything is SUCH A HUGE PERK over cigarettes. Also your lungs will thank you, it becomes so much easier to breathe after a few weeks of no smoke.

I don’t recommend the garbage at gas stations unless that’s your only choice, I recommend you find a local vape shop and let them set you up.

Also, if you learn to mix your own liquid (which is very easy) you can taper your nicotine if you ever decide to quit. Makes it much easier, just a slightly smaller dose each month or two until you’re at 0mg/ml of nicotine.

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