this post was submitted on 29 Jul 2026
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Even with perfect measurements it's impossible to get to that line straight unless the frame is perfectly square. This not only completely solves that issue but also saves a ton of time not having to measure and cut them one by one.

Also the lumber I picked turned out to be 10 cm longer than the deck and I even picked the exact right amount. By the time I was done I only had a basket of <10 cm off-cuts.

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[–] bluGill@fedia.io 57 points 2 days ago (2 children)

I've been a professional before. Where it mattered we cut the ends off in place that same way.

[–] pageflight@piefed.social 11 points 2 days ago (2 children)

What tool to cut them off without damaging surroundings? Just a circular saw?

[–] bluGill@fedia.io 32 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Circular saw with the blade set such that it just barely will cut all the way through.

[–] 4am@lemmy.zip 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Shouldn’t you set it about 1/4” below whatever you’re cutting?

[–] bluGill@fedia.io 7 points 1 day ago

Depends but i would say quarter is way too much. Generally dimensioned lumber is close enough that right on is just fine but rough cut needs more tolerance. My habit was often a 32 less and the rest breaks off with no danger to the blade.

[–] blueduck@piefed.social 6 points 2 days ago

Track saw or a circular saw

[–] NigelFrobisher@aussie.zone 4 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (3 children)

Do you not need to treat the exposed ends several times then though? I gave up on a project like this because it just felt like it would rot again quickly.

[–] bluGill@fedia.io 8 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Treated wood should be treated through and so no need to treat the ends

[–] Iconoclast@feddit.uk 4 points 1 day ago

The treatment generally goes into the wood only few centimeters so in some cases the cut ends do need to be treated. I've replaced pieces of deck framing in the past that had rotted out because this wasn't taken into consideration.

[–] MBech@feddit.dk 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

It won't rot as long as it gets to dry out once in a while.

[–] NigelFrobisher@aussie.zone 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I think that’s what the problem with the existing deck was lol. Also no-one uses hardwood cos it costs so much more.

[–] HerbGrower@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Even softwood seems so expensive. Plywood is probably the extent of my budget for a lot of things. Not sure how well it lasts outside or how treatable it is though so just haven't really made much.

[–] BradleyUffner@lemmy.world 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Plywood had gotten crazy expensive too. Even more so than pine and hardwood.

[–] HerbGrower@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 day ago

Probably, but its cheaper than solid wood

[–] atomicbocks@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 day ago (2 children)

I am also curious about this, it looks like a place where water will collect in between. At least where I live, maybe this person lives in a dryer climate?

[–] Iconoclast@feddit.uk 4 points 1 day ago

This is under a roof so it doesn't get wet regularly. However even if it did that would be okay due to the NTR-AB grade treatment on the wood. It resists water for as long as it gets to dry out in between. For framing I use NTR-A grade which can withstand being constantly wet but there the cut ends needs to be treated or else that's where the water gets in and it'll rot from the inside out since pressure treatment is only on the surface.

[–] bluGill@fedia.io 2 points 1 day ago

I can't say for sure from pictures but my guess is everything is safe for in water use and so no worry. It doesn't take much to drain the water out