DIY

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Like the title, I have a small DIY project where I’m going to put a gerbil tunnel system connecting two of the enclosures in the image together. Because the transparent window is thin clear plastic they aren’t really strong enough to handle any force at where the tunnels will connect to the windows.

So, I want to put stabilizing bars connecting both enclosures together at their frame. I’m thinking like a 1”x1” hard plastic bar, that’s 6”-12” long, at the corners of the window that lock into square plates that have three sides lifted (“c” style) to slot and lock the bar into. I don’t know what this would be called. Idk where I would find it. But, this seems like something I’ve seen before and should exist.

Does anything come to mind?

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hi all! I am tetraplegic and drive my wheelchair with my chin. the medical grade facemasks I've tried over the last few years make it impossible to do this while wearing them properly. I have 2 cloth masks that can be worn while driving, but I know they don't offer much protection, so I'm here to ask

  1. if detachable air filters even exist?
  2. whether they can be installed in a cloth mask
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Hello Lemmy,

Youve been so helpful over the last few months. Maybe someone can help me with this.

I have this butchers block countertop with an undermount sink. I had it installed 18 months ago. I sealed it, and then this part was being warped and forced apart. I put in wood block, I resealed it. But as you can see, its coming apart again.

I followed all the advice of the handy men I know, including the one that installed it. The only thing I can think of is, aside from reblocking and sealing it, maybe a line of silicon around where the faucet comes up, and around the lip where the sink is flush with hole its mounted in, both things they assured me wouldn't be necessary. Should I be concerned about a leak on the underside? Am I just hosed?

(More pics of the whole set up on request)

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Hey all!

I'm at the process of building an enclosure for my 3D printer. Its purpose is to keep the heat inside, while dampening the sound from the printer.

I already have the base to absorb any vibrations, but I need side panels too for said heat and noise insulation.

For that purpose, there are only two options, but both acoustic panels or insulation foam are either not flame retardant, expensive or both.

I thought about that problem a while, and came to the idea, that I could go the DIY route and make either mycelium based plates, or plant fiber (like hemp) turned into concrete, aka. hempcrete.

Luckily, I'm both a mushroom and weed enthusiast with quite a lot of solarpunk spirit, and have everything I need for both. But I just don't know where to start.

Here's how I would do it:

Mushroom bricks

  • I'd probably take Reishi as culture, because from my experience, it was the most robust mycelium. Oysters weren't as firm, but grew way faster and with less contamination.
  • Make grain spawn as starter culture
  • Mix it with plant materials, like hemp fiber, straw, or saw dust
  • Fill egg cartons or something similar (uneven surface for better sound crushing properties) with the inocculated substrate
  • And let them incubate for two weeks
  • When finished, take out of the mould and put it into the oven for drying
  • Finished

Hempcrete

  • I would probably start with animal litter substrate, basically small chopped hemp fibers
  • Mix it with calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime)
  • Add some cement
  • Pour into mould
  • Cure for a week
  • Finish?

How feasible is all of that? While I'm all into that for research purposes, I also want something that just works.

How experimental is it? Are there already any well documented procedures for both?

How's the long term stability, e.g. degradation, mold risk, smell, dimensional stability, etc.? Especially regarding the mushrooms, how can I prevent them from turning either moldy or brown when drying?

What alternative materials are also well suited for that purpose?

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cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/17687690

where could someone find a pair of sturdy, comfortable goggles that an optometrist can put a prescription into?

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cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/16912428

Up until a few days ago, I've had a Google Pixel 5.

I used it for about 3-4 years, but I had to replace it due to its' hardware failing and it hitting EOL software support wise. Especially the USB-C port is damaged, and the battery is drained in just one blink of an eye.

Said device is now lying around in the drawer, and I want to find a good use out of it. It's still a fine phone. Like all those phones other people have in their drawer. It's probably faster than my homeserver, has cameras, sensors, wireless connections, and much more.

It has GrapheneOS installed, and is still more or less secure, probably even more than 80% of other android phones right now I guess?

**Do you have any ideas for what I can repurpose it? **


I know that there's Octo4a, which can turn it into an Octoprint server for my 3D-printer, but I already have a Raspberry Pi for that, and as said, the phone has an unstable USB connection.

Maybe I could use it for my photography equipment, e.g. as remote shutter?

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Homebrew battery (www.hanssummers.com)
submitted 3 months ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
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Direct link to the PDF guide on how to build the heater here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N-q3Zu6jngpSJdXUoSkWl4YKb26RCvAV/view

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A super cool collection of projects ranging from how to make an effective fluoride varnish for dental protection, abortion medication, and more!

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Experimenting with making cat litter out of biodegradable newspaper. It was pretty easy. Found a large strainer out on trash day.

  1. Cut or shred recycled newspaper into ribbons.(above)

  1. Soak in water with a little biodegradable soap

  1. Strain and soak in plain water.

  1. Sprinkle with baking soda and squeeze out water.

Let air dry for several days. I'll report back on how it worked. :-D

Eventually, I'd like to compost with mycoremediation for non-crop plants.

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We have an electric cargo bike that’s served us really well. We bought it second hand at a pretty affordable price because the battery was shot. Fortunately we found a great local repair shop that could replace it, and we now have a pretty great bike.

Unfortunately the drum breaks on the front wheels are getting really bad after about 12 years or so, and our local bike repair shop is at a loss for finding new parts. The front wheels are mounted on an axle that’s controlled by hyudralics (which gives the bike a great turning radius), so they’re a bit special. The original hubs are Sturmey Archer XL-SD’s, but they don’t seem to be available anywhere.

Does anyone have suggestions for what I can use instead? Has anyone hacked their way to one-side-mounted front wheels for a three-wheeled bike, eg by using a through axle?

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One of my hobbies is fixing up ewaste laptops and giving them away. I actually do lots of ewaste electronics, from TVs to space heaters, but the laptops are where I put in the most work. Some are new, intact, and ready to go with nothing more than a OS reset. Others have had parts removed or damaged, and need more work. Most of these computers I give to a local refugee resettlement organization, but some of them are old enough, or otherwise weird enough that I wouldn’t feel right about giving it to someone who already has a lot of problems to deal with. I try to make sure they get fast computers with familiar operating systems whenever possible. So far, I’ve always had enough decent machines to pass along that that hasn’t been an issue.

Through this project I made friends with a guy who works at the local recycling center. He does a similar thing with TVs, though covering even more organizations and moving more equipment than I do. He helped me up my game a lot. He provided some old Windows multi use keys, a ton of cables and USB hubs to give away with each laptop, an almost endless stream of power bricks for any model I needed, and recently he was able to get the management there to agree that he could take laptops too, if he caught the people who dropped them off and asked if they were okay with it. Otherwise the site policy says they need to be securely destroyed.

So suddenly I had two sources of hardware, which was a huge help in providing computers to everyone who needs one. Not all of them are great though – sometimes you get a laptop with a single DDR1 ram slot (can’t go above 1GB), or in this case, a couple chromebooks with expired, insecure OSs. He wasn’t sure I’d be able to do anything with them, and asked me a few times if I was sure I wanted them, but I didn’t feel it was a big risk. I’d try fixing them up and if there was an issue, I could always put them back in recycling. Neither one seemed like a great fit for the refugees, they only had 2 gigs of RAM and 16 gigs of on-board storage space. No hard drives. But the hardware was nice, lightweight, with a nice screen and keyboard, and the batteries were awesome. I hate to throw something like that away.

I started with reading about my options and settled on MrChromeBox’s script for replacing the ChromeOS and firmware with a proper BIOS. The website and instructions were thorough and worked perfectly for me.

Step 1 was removing the hardware write protection. All chrombooks have some kind of write protection that prevents you from paving over their firmware. In some it’s a jumper wire connecting two contacts. On others its a lack of a jumper. Sometimes they use a screw to bridge those contacts, and on some, the battery itself acts as the bridge and you can only reinstall the BIOS when the battery has been disconnected and the laptop is plugged in.

Mine was an easy one, enabled with a screw. The website didn’t have a photo for this model, but it wasn’t hard to find since it looked different than all the rest. (I’ve since sent this photo to MrChromeBox in case he’d like to use it.) Once that was out of the way, I followed their instructions to get to the correct command line interface and entered the commands to run their script. Very satisfying. A great ratio of ‘feeling like a hacker’ to actual effort involved.

Once the script completed, I had basically a regular laptop. Probably closer to an old netbook in terms of hardware. I could install Linux Mint but it would take up most of the storage space. I received a bunch of microSD cards as a gift, so I bought a super low profile microSD to SD adapter and stuffed a 512GB microSD into the SD slot. That’s going to be a pain to get out some day.

The BIOS is happy to boot to the SD slot, so I installed Linux Mint there. Suddenly I had a regular laptop with plenty of storage space, a bit light on RAM, but it’s a perfect little computer for carrying around the city and going to write-ins, etc. Light weight, good keyboard and touchpad, awesome battery.

I know I could have used a lighter weight OS, but Mint is sort of my default, its super convenient, has wonderful compatibility, good community support, and just works well when I want a computer that isn’t itself, a project. Between the web browsers, the preinstalled Libre Office, and the writing tool Wavemaker Cards, I have everything I need for most of my projects.

A few days into using it we had a makerspace night, and since I had access to the laser cutter, I put together a quick solarpunk stencil. I love using the laser cutter to cut stencils. It turns hours of work into minutes, and it can do intricate designs with narrow bridges that I’d often have to glue back together after tearing or accidentally cutting. Plus, it works best when cutting thick cardstock paper or thin cardboard, which makes for better stencils, but is a pain to cut by hand. To reduce waste, I used an old cracker box for my stencil.

Once it was cut out I saved the bits and pieces in case I wanted to do this design as a reverse stencil sometime.

To make sure the size was good I laid out the bits and pieces on the center of the laptop. Eventually I corrected the tilt so it followed a line from the top right to the bottom left corners. Once I had it in the right place, I lightly taped the gear part in place so I could use it to position the actual stencil later on.

With this one there wasn’t any reason not to use some temporary spray adhesive, so I spritzed the cardstock with that, let it dry enough not to leave residue, stuck it down, and peeled up the gear. I usually use old return address stickers, the kind charities send you forever after you donate once, to cover up any gaps on the stencil, and to keep the other masking stuff in place. The stickers are great whenever you need tape but don’t care how it looks.

I used the same yellow graff paint I had from years ago and recently used on another project. I tried to hit it straight down, mostly to avoid anything slipping in under the edge of the stencil and because I hadn’t masked the rest too well. With such a simple stencil it wasn’t really a big deal. Once it was done I had my traditional moment of panic as I realized I hadn’t really checked that I’d applied the whole thing right-side-up, but it worked out this time, saving me a lot of hassle. As paranoid as I am about other measure-twice-cut-once preparation tasks, you’d think I’d be better at this one.

And that’s about it. The laptop’s working well, I’m actually writing this post up on it at the moment. Overall it’s a good little writing laptop, and I’ll probably set its sibling up the same way soon enough.

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I remember seeing a wiki awhile ago (possibly on the r/solarpunk subreddit?) that was dedicated to providing people with open source furniture. Primarily they used a laser cutter and cheap plywood for ease of use. The end goal was to create public spaces that were easy to set up in the communities. For the life of me I can't find the original wiki! I'd love to rediscover it as I'm moving and will finally be able to work on some of the projects. Does anyone know the website that I am talking about?

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One of my favorite channels for DYI inspiration. Most videos are about salvaging damaged things from junkyards and repairing them or using them to build something new.

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