techsupport

It started from the left side of the screen to toe right and I don't know how to fix it (if it can even be fixed)

I recently got a new phone, and it has a quick access bar that pops up during certain actions (I think mostly when switching apps). It has a search button, the access to apps like camera, browser, phone, messages, settings.

How do I disable it?

Edit: I have worked out I can long press then I see an option to "Always show taskbar", so I haven't worked out how to hide it but I guess it's called the "taskbar", though this is different to the normal go back, go home, app switch task bar.

On this mander account, in the standard web client. The front page loads as expected. Clicking next generates the next page URL, but posts do not load in; grey boxes where post information should be and an endless wait. Refreshing and reloading does not fix. Changing from all to local/subscribed feed does not fix. Logging out does fix, but then I'm not logged in.

Edit: Bug persists across devices, phone, pc and boox tablet, and both windows and ubuntu. Suggests server/account-specific issue?

I had a similar (identical) problem for a while on a feddit.org account, but it has since resolved to normal expected behavior without any input on my part.

It's annoying.

Please advise.

The symptom: the mouse becomes somewhat unresponsive. The cursor still moves. If you have a window focused, it still receives keystrokes and can launch other things. But the window manager (fvwm3) doesn't seem to be aware of what the mouse is doing; it won't pop up menus or do the "focus follows mouse" behaviour it normally does.

You can sometimes restore responsiveness by killing one of the Fvwm modules (FvwmButtons, FvwmIconMan), or getting the window that has focus to close. These tend to be sort of chicken-egg since the issue appears a few seconds after login so you don't necessarily have an xterm launched and receiving focus.

You can also get control back reliably by switching out of the current VT and back (Control-Alt-F1/Control-Alt-F7)

It mostly happens shortly after the first login on a fresh boot. (Log out and back in and it doesn't trigger). I think there have been a few times it happened in other scenarios.

It seems to happen on both Devuan Excalibur and Void (current). The impacted machine is a home-built desktop with a Radeon 6900XT and two monitors (one 1440p/120Hz, one 4k xrandr'd-down to 1440p/60Hz) and two trackballs.

I don't think it happens on my other machine (a Thinkpad L13 Gen3 running Devuan Excalibur, with just the one 1200p touchscreen, Trackpoint and touchpad) but its config is different in a few ways (not loading some items I don't use there), so there's not an obvious single differentiator.

I think I also saw some similar weirdness in Fluxbox; the menu would come up but wouldn't acknowledge clicks on items. In that case, I was able to navigate the menu with keystrokes to restart the window manager and regain control.

I don't see anything obvious in dmesg, either.

I'm quite often in low / no signal places so my iPhone is setup to have a lot of offline apps. I periodically have issues where my iPhone "helps" me by freeing up space. Unfortunately, a trigger can be downloading an offline map / wiki just before going somewhere without much coverage. I just turned off "offload unused apps" (and I'm not sure why it was on).

I'm wondering what other settings are lurking that are worth turning off. Any ideas?

(And there are probably better places to ask on the internet but I'm working to use a few less of the centralised sites or US tech.)

Nearing the end of nursing school - we've been exchanging a lot of contact info in our class chat, but it's becoming a clusterfuck of that mixed with other random messages...

I'm wondering if pull all that data into its own list, if I can then convert that list into Google Calling Cards or something that can be loaded in bulk onto my and my classmate's phones.

There are around 100 of us, and we've got a pretty even split of iphone and android users... idk if Calling Cards or iphone's equivalent are compatible with the other OS.

I could make the contact list individually on my own phone, but sharing it with my classmates is the main goal, and it'd be way less tedious to do this on my desktop and import it later... but I'm not aware of any way to actually do that.

Open to all suggestions!

Due to CAD/CAM and the nature of my industry, I'm stuck with windows on my daily driver for the foreseeable future. (Been using Linux since Ubuntu was new, have multiple servers and old chromebooks running different flavors.)

I've been putting off dealing with this. Goatfucking bullshit pain in my dick. Ffffffuck me right in the ass. I would happily slit Clippy's throat right in front of his little paperclip children and sleep like a baby.

Can I pretty please get recommendations on upgrading to 11 and unfucking it as much as possible? Comfortable editing the registry, using the command line, and monkeying with the BIOS. Anybody know of a good guide for neutering all the AI shit, copliot, onedrive nagging?

*Edit - Solved:

Thank you all very much! This is the advice I was looking for.

Long ago, I learned that when preparing to do a machine incantation; you must give the machine a good cussing. It shows the machine you are the boss and the machine gods are more likely to smile upon your efforts. I have a black cat and crossroads dirt in case things get real bad.

Hi!

Nursing student here, BUT NOT FOR LONG!!! ...nearing graduation and have started the tedious process of scouring the internet for desirable job postings.

I've been at this a few weeks, and am finding myself scrolling through the same postings repeatedly, many of which I have either no interest in applying to, or am not eligible for.

My thought was to use uBlock Origin to 'block element' on those postings, but idk shit about this kind of tech, and I'm worried if I start doing this, I'll inadvertently block new postings that come up later - and won't know cuz it won't be visible.

Not trying to block an entire hospital's worth of posts, but like the nurse manager positions, CRNA, or clinics like cath lab which require a year of ICU experience (which I don't have)... there are also a ton of technician and physician positions popping uo despite searching for 'nurse'... I'd like to just nuke those from my browser so that when I look for new postings later I'm only seeing positions that are actually new.

Any thoughts on the best way to do that without shooting myself in the foot and obscuring new postings that might get snagged by this kind of filtering?

Edit- probably helpful to mention that I'm using Windows 10 and firefox, lol.

I'm old so am clueless. I tried unpairing and repairing on the TV and phone, rebooting and tried with my tablet too.

Any ideas?

It is messed up that number spoofing is legal in Canada for ridiculous reasons - clearly the telecom cartel here lobbied to make this legal and extract more money from Canadians. I had some friends (yeah, plural) who received threats because someone spoofed their numbers to rob old folks, and they had to ask help from the police. With me, the spoofing was not so severe, someone missed the scammers call and called me asking why I was calling them, soon we realized what happened, and I asked them to report the case (I also did it).

I noticed that when a number is not spoofed, it is provided by the same company: Iristel https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iristel After getting a bunch of spams/scams today, I decided to use one of those services to reverse search. All, not spoofed, scams calls/sms I got this year came from that same company, while none of the legit calls came from them.

I hope there is a way to block this company numbers from reaching me. If not, at least I raise awareness.

To be used for work. Gaming not a concern, might play FM at most which works on anything.

Requirements:

• last a long long time.
• Compatibility with phone. Afraid of Mac for this reason. Not an iPhone user. Also afraid of learning curve and office suite. My work requires a lot of those files being shared around.
• i7
• latest gen
• ssd storage
• decent ram

What can be taught to kids through turbowarp desktop ?? In other words, how can turbowarp desktop be used by kids to explore into the world of computers and games in particular ?????

I'll preface this by saying I only have some basic knowledge around hardware. Any answers I might receive will probably have to be dumbed down a bit. So I bought a used 2021 Razer Blade on eBay a few months ago cos it had good specs for the price. I know, I know, desktops are better for gaming but I live in a van and travel a lot so a desktop isn't an option

Anyway, I hadn't really thought about it until afterwards (silly mistake) but I learned quite soon after buying it that it's the latest model that doesn't have battery management that allows capping the charge at 80%. I tried finding a software solution for this but from looking it up it seems that I'd need better hardware to do it and you can't with just software? Correct me if I'm wrong

Is this something I can upgrade the laptop with or is it baked in, so to speak? I know these laptops are pretty notorious for the pillow battery thing, if that's the right term. I'll accept I'll need to replace it at some point if it can't be done, but if there's some other solution then that'd be great

I have a retail Windows 7 Home Premium license, which allows for moving between machines. I upgraded it to Windows 8 and 10 through their respective programs and I could upgrade to 11 if it were to support my PC, but it doesn't.

So I want to move the license to my newer laptop (13th gen Intel Framework 13). I could install Windows 10 with my Windows 7 key and then upgrade to Windows 11, but unfortunately the laptop doesn't support 10, not even enough to just install. And Windows 11 doesn't accept my Windows 7 key.

Any ideas? One thing I considered is booting from USB, attach the system storage to a VM, install Windows 10 there, upgrade to 11 and then reboot into it natively, but maybe there's a better way.

(I'm not intent on buying a new Windows 11 license, I own a license for 10 that can be moved and upgraded)

Fixed!

This is what I had to do, in the end, to transfer the retail license from my Windows 10 PC to a Windows 11 laptop:

1. Link the Windows 10 license to my Microsoft account. First my Windows 10 activation status showed "activated with a digital license", switching to a Microsoft account associated the license with that account, making it show "activated with a digital license connected to your Microsoft account"

2. Install Windows 11 on the laptop. Choose "I don't have a product key" during installation.

3. In the Windows 11 activation settings, use the troubleshooter, select the "I changed my hardware" option. It should spin for a bit and then give an option to show devices to transfer the license from. (This first failed for me with a generic error message, fixed by reinstalling Windows 11)

4. Choose the old system to transfer the license. (My Windows 10 system wasn't listed the first time, I had to convert its account to local and then back to an MS account for it to show up)

The old Windows 7 key w/Windows 10 upgrade path was a massive red herring, that option was closed in 2023.

Machine ran fine (windows 7) before wiping the hard drives. Thing is, I couldn't access the boot menu to install a new OS via thumbdrive because the display cuts out when I get there, and I'm 1000% sure HP did this on purpose because I've seen other people experience the same issue in forums and videos even after verifying each individual component worked and that the setup screen still functions. I theorize whats happening is the boot menu is running normally but they have it cut the feed so that only trained HP employees know what buttons to press in what order. Ctrl Alt Delete during this phase restarts the machine, and accessing boot menu before wiping then pressing enter booted like normal.

(one of the damn things are locked up like Alcatraz btw, rivets in the case, had to wire it to another computer while leaving it in the original bracket)

But after installing Windows 10 LTSC onto the drive it still doesnt finish booting, and with no display output it's hard to know whats going on.

I could try some Linux distros with compatibility in mind if I get any suggestions.

Whats next to try?

UPDATE 7 OCT

Things I've tried so far:

1. install linux mint from USB

Result: Failure/No Response

Cause: Unknown

2. Installed a bootable linux mint to an EFI drive partition on the hard drive using a second computer then installed that drive on the machine in question.

Result: Failure to boot

Cause: Unknown

3. Burn a Hirens BootCD and use Plop Boot Manager to make bootable USB usable and potentially enable some graphics

Results: Pending, I didnt have any CDs/DVDs large enough to burn Hirens

Here are some Images of the BIOS Setup screen at default values except for Diagnostics and boot priority.

Notice the USB drive is listed alongside the unallocated hard drives.

UPDATE 7 OCT #2:

Walked away for a snack and came back to this big beautiful screen!

Now clearly it has managed to get past the boot menu to Linux Mint. Mouse is responsive.

This is a very unsatisfying conclusion, because I do not know why it works now but did not work before. I don't understand.

UPDATE 7 OCT #3:

PS This machine appears to be 32 bit only, despite the 64 in the processor's name, so the mainline Ubuntu distros don't support it, but I was able to get an MX XFCE running.

Hello,

Would anyone happen to be familiar with the Tech Support company, EasyITGuys?

They seemed to be hiring for some remote support, but I've never heard of them.

Just trying to see if anyone has come across them before I send them too much of my information. 😬

Thanks a lot for taking the time to provide any advice or info.

Have a great week.

EasyITGuys

This was given to me today and I'm trying to mess with it to no avail. I haven't been able to root the damn thing no matter what I try. And the OEM unlocking option is absent from the developer options altogether. I have tried trick after trick, gome through step after step, and it just doesn't seem to want to let me root it. I can't flash anything on it without that as far as I am aware. The I try to mess with thw bootloader but the whole thing is in Chinese. I am extremely limited in my ability to read it. I would post pictures but for some reason I'm not able to post pictures on here anymore. But that's a separate issue. Here's some more info on the device: runs Android 4.4.2, kernel is 3.4.67. It's an iDroid Royal v7. Dunno what else I need to add, but I'll say what I can I just want to root the damn thing to play with it further. Thanks.

Anyone know how well the integrated GUP would do with 4k desktop, youtube, browsing and document viewing?

I found LANOC review talking a little about gaming performance. It says "you won’t have any problems using your PC for anything else.". I am interested in normal desktop usage in 4k specifically. For example Gnome, KDE and web browsers in 4k.

So i have an MSI H67MA-E35 mainboard and i got it with a intel i5 2nd gen LGA 1155, that i replaced with an intel i7 3770, also LGA 1155, but now the mainboard makes 4 beeps on boot and shuts down. I've been searching online, but found absolutely nothing, the fact that the motherboard is old also doesn't help.

edit: what i also found, is that it could be a unoperational timer

Edit 2: it was in fact outdated bios 😔

To make a long story short, I buggered up the Windows 10 installation on my wife's PC while trying to address a GPU issue. Fortunately, I had been saving regular system images to a spare HD on her machine using the Windows System Image utility--including one from earlier that day. Unfortunately, I'm running into no end of trouble trying to restore from those images.

The drives in question:

Disk 0 = 1TB backup SATA drive containing images (MBR)

Disk 1 = 1TB NVME drive originally with windows installation (MBR)

Disk 2 = 32GB USB recovery drive

What I've done so far:

-Use the Windows Recovery Media utility on my Windows 11 machine to create a USB recovery drive

-Verify that I'm booting in legacy BIOS mode, not UEFI

-Boot into recovery mode from the recovery drive

-Open command prompt, use diskpart to clear Disk 1, create a new MBR volume (same as the install used to create the images), and format that volume as NTFS

-Use "System Image Recovery" option, select image from the backup drive

-Ensure Disk 1 is unchecked in the "exclude disks" menu of the Image Recovery tool

-Get "The system image recovery failed" with error code 0x80042412 in the details dialog

-Run chkdsk on Disk 0 and 1 (no errors)

-Run through about every possible iteration and permutation of the above steps, while referencing how-tos on the topic

From the few forum posts I can find on the topic, one of the big problems is people trying to restore an image to a volume that's smaller than the volume that was imaged. But this is the exact same drive the image was created from.

The only thing I haven't chased down fully is using the "Install Drivers" option in the recovery tool--mainly because I can't figure out what drivers I might need. And I figured since diskpart has no problem reading and modifying the drive, it's probably not a storage device driver issue.

In hindsight, I should have just cloned the drive instead of messing with images, but here I am... Any tips or suggestions are appreciated!

(The ironic thing is I was getting ready to help her pick out a Linux distro to migrate to. That's still the plan, but I'd like to get her back to a stable Windows install on the side to ease the transition)

Computer has been a bit wonky last few days with either Firefox crashing out or Explorer freezing. Malwarebytes didn't find anything, and I set Defender to do a full scan but this happened in the middle of that. Got an error pop-up from Google Drive, which I have set for file streaming. But I just decided to shut down the computer for now.

I have a Western Digital 4TB hard drive, and everything has been going well until recently where I had to move a computer from one room to the next. Everything was turned off and then unplugged to be moved. I plugged it all back in, turned it all back on, and then suddenly it's locked me out. I also previously before putting any data on it (this was months ago now) formatted it to be ext4 for internal use with my computer (Arch btw). Now a thing pops up in Removable Devices called WD Unlocker. I looked for everything to help me. I even plugged it into a Windows computer I had lying around to use the tool. I never put a password on it, so the tutorials were kind of useless and despite running the unlocker .exe it still won't let me access anything on it. The error message I get at the top of Dolphin says an error occurred while accessing mydrive, the system responded: an unspecified error has occurred. Did not recieve reply. Possible causes include: the remote application did not send a reply, the message bus security policy blocked the reply, the reply timeout expired, or the network connection was broken. I was able to get access to some files somehow like 2 days ago, but now I'm dealing with the same issue, regardless of booting the computer, and cycling on and off, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to fix this. I even tried using a partition manager to see what was up, but it either loads in days amounts of time, or will pull up but not show what could be causing this since I didn't expect any software to be active on it since originally formatting. Please help me. I don't want to lose almost 4TB of stuff just because it's acting stupid on me. I feel like I've tried everything, and the only other answer from looking things up I've gotten was that WD drives are stupid as hell for this specific reason. I'm at my wits end.

I have recently taken apart some old PCs and found an HDD that uses this cable, but my motherboard doesn't seem to have a connector. Is there a way to connect this to SATA or PCIE?

edit: hdd, not ssd

Honestly, I'd miss plenty of content, and some of it great, too. But I can't take opening this damn app anymore and being blasted with US everywhere, even in unrelated communities. I honestly feel sometimes like I should just quit Lemmy, or at least take a long break. But idk what to do in the bathroom lol

tried the EEPROM shorting method, but I either cannot pull it off with two hands (I already need two to just short the EEPROM, even if it's kind of easy to reach), or don't know when to exactly short the EEPROM to bypass the screen.

I bought a replacement board for mine, but it's BIOS locked, and I need to defeat it to disable secure boot to make it usable (won't even boot with PXE without erroring out).