Rolive

This is for older car models that do not have built-in navigation or bad navigation. My car is old enough to have a cassette player.

This model is made for a Toyota Yaris from 2001 and the phone inside is an S21 Ultra that would otherwise have been sitting in a drawer.

I have sacrificed the original sunvisor to get the swivel part out and modeled a new sunvisor around it. Since this car is really old it's okay to make these modifications.

So far the driving experience has improved a lot, it is a pretty decent location for a navigation system since you can focus on driving much more easily than having to look down and to the right.

The models and FreeCAD design file may be found here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1256013-toyota-yaris-sun-visor-with-navigation-phone

Hi all

For the past couple of years I have been running a Raspberry Pi4 with PiHole and PiVPN. Both of which I'm very satisfied with. My ISP recently changed the IP address assigned to me, this doesn't happen often but did cause my VPN profiles to no longer work. Simply changing the end IP address in the VPN config does not work so the configs had to be remade entirely. If this happens again and I am not near home, what would be a way to regain access? Can that be done remotely?

I am concerned with the possibility that my IP changes while I'm on a vacation and then lose access to my NAS and other home systems with no way to get it back until after.

I am considering a script that generates a new config file and sends it over email when I send a specific text to a phone, that could work. Is this over engineered? Something like a deadman switch could work too.

Thanks!

This is UV sensitive solder mask resin, applied as thin as possible using a silk screen mesh. Afterwards it's heated at about 90C for 10 minutes. This makes it more sensitive to UV light by evaporating most of the solvent.

It is exposed with a 405nm laser at about 250mw of power. I intentionally unfocused the laser for a spot size of about 0.5nm

After exposure the pads are easily cleaned off with some IPA.

I'm currently using an Orbiter 1.5 and it's pretty decent but I'm looking for an upgrade. I like the light style extruder sitting on the gantry over a Bowden system as it allows for flexible filament and has much better control over retraction.

Is the 2.0 a significant improvement over the 1.5? Should I get a new hotend as well with it?

Right now I'm using a MicroSwiss all metal hotend and am quite satisfied with it.

Print speed is okay I guess.

Hi all

I've made a detachable toolhead mod for an Ender 5 that uses an MGN12 linear rail on the X axis. It also assumes using an Orbiter 1.5 extruder. The idea is to be able to switch between 3D printing, lasercutting and very light milling easily. The main purpose is to be able to use the Ender 5 for PCB making and that is what the small drill unit is good enough for.

Let me know what you think and feel free to remix it for your own setup!

Hi all

Does anyone have any experience with this kit? I'm interested in the linear rail upgrade and CoreXY as well for higher printspeeds.

I sometimes attach a small PCB drill to my Ender5 to help with diy PCBs and may want to try basic CNC milling as well with it.

There are two kits for the Ender5, one for the Ender5 Pro and Ender5 Plus. The difference is in the size of the linear rails. Do the rails for the Ender5 Plus fit on the Ender5? On paper they are smaller than the size of the frame and in the future I might upgrade the Ender 5 to a bigger frame. I don´t mind if they stick out a little bit if it makes upgradability better.

Hi there

The purpose of this schematic is to control a DC motor that runs at 8V max. That is why I chose 4 N-channel mosfets in the H bridge. P-channels would not fully activate at voltages above -10Vgs but the N-channels can handle 18V at the gate.

The 5v switches represent an Arduino's digital output pins. One to turn forward, one for reverse. To prevent a failure scenario where both pins are HIGH I added a transistor that prevents current from flowing through the optocoupler on the second half bridge.

Does this circuit make sense? I'm not an electronics engineer, just a hobbyist and have doubts about how effective the gate driving circuit is of the mosfets.

Thanks!

According to the A4998 datasheet you're supposed to wait 1 millisecond after waking from sleep to allow the circuit to energise.

What is the worst that can happen if you neglect to do this? I use stepper motors to drive a plant watering pump and losing a step or two really isn't an issue. Is there a risk of damaging the module or is losing the first step the biggest risk?

I trigger the pump by pulling the EN pin low and a 555 timer on the STEP pin makes it pump continuously. It seems sensible to pull the SLP pin down as well with it as that saves a little bit of power.

Hi everyone

I've been experimenting with methods of applying etch resist with a laser and dry film. The process is kind of arduous and error prone.

Developing with sodium carbonate solution to clear unexposed etch resist takes long, doesn't work well and if you leave it too long the developed etch resist will break as well.

I use a laser module attached to a 3D printer to draw the PCB (LCB?) on the etch resist. This laser almost instantly solidifies toner for laserprinters and also almost instantly hardens dry film.

Using powdered toner and a laser would be a much quicker way to apply etch resist since the excess can be wiped off and reused easily. The problem is applying a uniform layer of toner.

Suspending toner on the surface of water and hydrodipping the plate seems to work but drying takes too long.

Spray coating could work but is messy.

Isopropyl alcohol softens the toner too much making it impossible to clean the excess off.

I have not tried using a roller or electrostatic application yet but that could work well.

Does any of you have experience with this and have ideas/advice?