sugar_in_your_tea

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[–] [email protected] 17 points 21 hours ago

A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. This is a good thing.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 22 hours ago

Maybe? It depends on what the speed limit is and what enforcement looks like.

I can get up to 20mph (30+ kmh) on my non-assist bite, faster when going downhill, yet most people cruise at 10-15 mph. If we set it too low, it'll discourage use for regular transportation, like commuting, and if we set it too high, it doesn't solve the problem.

And for enforcement, there's no way police will be stationed there, and camera surveillance is difficult, so it's unlikely to happen.

I just see the whole thing as problematic, so either don't enforce anything or enforce vehicle types.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 day ago

Yup, that's what Peertube is.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 day ago (4 children)

I think we should just ban non-assist from the bike lanes and paths. I'm fine with them existing, just not fine with irresponsible people endangering others by cruising at car speeds in pedestrian zones.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago

I'm generally in favor, provided the licenses transfer properly when you sell it, while the game remains until someone else inserts the card.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

Steam Deck

It's managed like a console, meaning users don't really manage the system. You can install flatpaks, but that's about it, managing packages with pacman just isn't a thing. Bazzite is largely the same way, the base OS is immutable and updated with atomic updates.

Saying Steam OS is Arch is like saying the Switch is FreeBSD. It's technically correct, but not in the sense that actually matters.

And yeah, Bazzite is totally fine. If you don't touch the internals, you probably won't have any issues, especially if you run an AMD GPU. But I don't really consider it an "Arch distribution" because of that immutable base OS. I use an immutable distro on my laptop (openSUSE Aeon), and I love it.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

We absolutely do! I gave one kid the Smash Brothers DLC with Steve for a birthday gift, and the other one asked if there was another and ended up buying the other DLC with their own money. One kid bought a bunch of Lego sets one year.

They get money from chores, extra jobs, and occasionally selling stuff (lemonade, hot coco, etc).

It's working pretty well so far.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago

Woo! Have fun!

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Arch doesn't have a standard interface, you pick it yourself. By default you get a terminal and no UI whatsoever.

On most Linux distributions, you'll install a pattern (basket of packages) for whatever you want, like gnome-desktop or plasma-desktop then reboot and it should be an option to pick at the login screen. There are dozens to choose from, and they all have various features and caveats. Installing multiple is generally fine, so feel free to experiment. Some distros have a very customized interface, so you may need to customise it a bit to match what you see in screenshots.

I recommend either KDE Plasma or GNOME to start. Broadly speaking, GNOME is more unique (inspired by macOS iI guess) and stable since it's sponsored by RedHat, whereas KDE Plasma is more familiar (looks like customized Windows) and still pretty stable since it has a large community.

The specific distro doesn't matter that much for the interface, so pick something mainstream with at least an option for more recent packages.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (1 children)

Sure, if he could pick and choose what attention he gets, he'd pick positive attention every time. But if he had to pick between negative attention and being ignored by the media, I think he'd pick negative attention.

At least that's my read. And selfishly, I'm really tired of seeing Musk and Trump all over my news feed.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Honestly, the whole Arch family is problematic because everyone does things a bit differently with different assumptions, so support doesn't exactly transfer. Arch in particular also expects you to do a lot of your own research, and that tends to carry with the various derivatives.

When you're new, you want something mainstream with a ton of users with a variety of configurations so you have a better shot at getting support for the problems you'll run into. You also probably want something recent, especially for gaming since there are a lot of changes to the gaming landscape.

That's why I recommend stable distros with relatively up-to-date packages. My go-to is Debian, and if you need something newer, upgrade to whatever the testing release is (in this case trixie). Fedora is also a great option. I personally use openSUSE Tumbleweed and Aeon (and soon Kalpa), but I don't recommend those distros because they're relatively niche so getting support may be difficult. They rarely break, but new users seem to attract Murphy's Law more than others, hence why I don't recommend it for new users.

As a second or third distro, sure, it's absolutely fantastic. I loved Arch when I used it, and I mostly switched because I wanted to run the same family of distros on my desktop and servers, and I wanted something a bit more stable than Arch for servers. I realize now that what I actually want is a separation between base OS and running services, so I've switched to containerization and am porting to a rolling distro for my servers as well (in this case, MicroOS, coming from Leap). But I definitely do not recommend Arch for new users because it has very few guardrails out of the box for when things go wrong.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago (6 children)

You can get pretty much any interface on any distro, so if you're judging a distro based on how it looks, you're probably not the target audience for Arch since Arch leaves all of that choice and responsibility on the user. Arch is a fantastic distro if you want what it offers, and you're okay managing what it doesn't offer.

Garuda is probably fine, idk, just avoid Manjaro IMO (they promise stability, but time and time again they've proven they can't deliver that). I personally recommend going with the more "professional" distros, because you'll have a lot more ready resources for help if something goes wrong.

 

Current setup:

  • one giant docker compose file
  • Caddy TLS trunking
  • only exposed port is Caddy

I've been trying out podman, and I got a new service running (seafile), and I did it via podman generate kube so I can run it w/ podman kube play. My understanding is that the "podman way" is to use quadlets, which means container, network, etc files managed by systemd, so I tried out podlet podman kube play to generate a systemd-compatible file, but it just spat out a .kube file.

Since I'm just starting out, it wouldn't be a ton of work to convert to separate unit files, or I can continue with the .kube file way. I'm just not sure which to do.

At the end of this process, here's what I'd like in the end:

  • Caddy is the only exposed port - could block w/ firewall, but it would be nice if they worked over a hidden network
  • each service works as its own unit, so I can reuse ports and whatnot - I may move services across devices eventually, and I'd rather not have to remember custom ports and instead use host names
  • automatically update images - shouldn't change the tag, just grab the latest from that tag

Is there a good reason to prefer .kube over .container et al or vice versa? Which is the "preferred" way to do this? Both are documented on the same "quadlet" doc page, which just describes the acceptable formats. I don't think I want kubernetes anytime soon, so the only reason I went that way is because it looked similar to compose.yml and I saw a guide for it, but I'm willing to put in some work to port from that if needed (and the docs for the kube yaml file kinda sucks). I just want a way to ship around a few files so moving a service to a new device is easy. I'll only really have like 3-4 devices (NAS, VPS, and maybe an RPi or two), and I currently only have one (NAS).

Also, is there a customary place to stick stuff like config files? I'm currently using my user's home directory, but that's not great long-term. I'll rarely need to touch these, so I guess I could stick them on my NAS mount (currently /srv/nas/) next to the data (/srv/nas//). But if there's a standard place to stick this, I'd prefer to do that.

Anyway, just looking for an opinionated workflow to follow here. I could keep going with the kube yaml file route, or I could switch to the .container route, I don't mind either way since I'm still early in the process. I'm currently thinking of porting to the .container method to try it out, but I don't know if that's the "right" way or if ".kube` with a yaml config is the "right" way.

 

Apparently US bandwidth was reduced to 1TB for their base plan, though they have 20TB for the same plan in Europe. I don't use much bandwidth right now, but I could need more in the future depending on how I do backups and whatnot.

So I'm shopping around in case I need to make a switch. Here's what I use it for:

  • VPN to get around CGNAT - so all traffic for my internal services goes through it
  • HAProxy - forwards traffic to my various services
  • small test servers - very low requirements, basically just STUN servers
  • low traffic blog

Hard requirements:

  • custom ISO, or at least openSUSE support
  • inexpensive - shooting for ~$5/month, I don't need much
  • decent bandwidth (bare minimum 50mbps, ideally 1gbps+), with high-ish caps - I won't use much data most of the time (handful of GB), but occasionally might use 2-5TB

Nice to have:

  • unmetered/generous bandwidth - would like to run a Tor relay
  • inexpensive storage - need to put my offsite backups somewhere
  • API - I'm a nerd and like automating things :)
  • location near me - I'm in the US, so anywhere in NA works

Not needed:

  • fast processors
  • lots of RAM
  • loose policies around torrenting and processing (no crypto or piracy here)
  • support features, recipes, etc - I can figure stuff out on my own

I'll probably stick with Hetzner for now because:

  • pricing is still fair (transfer is in line with competitors)
  • can probably move my server to Germany w/o major issues for more bandwidth
  • they hit all of the other requirements, nice to haves, and many unneeded features

Anyway, thoughts? The bandwidth change pisses me off, so let me know if there's a better alternative.

 

I know Mitt Romney is part of the two-party system, but he also stood up against his party by voting for Trump's impeachment and not once endorsing Trump for President.

This is his closing speech since he's retiring, and I think the message is worth listening to, especially since it seems to be an end of a moderate era for the GOP.

Anyway, perhaps this can open a discussion about the value of centrist politicians. Or whatever other thoughts you may have.

 

I thought this was an interesting video and I think it does a good job explaining at least part of why Trump won. Here's the original paper if you're interested.

I think the economy was a major factor in deciding this election, but obviously there are a lot of other factors to consider, such as the DNC not having a primary, Biden having a poor approval rating, and concerns around China and Russia, among a host of others. However, this seems to do a fantastic job explaining the results as well.

What do you think? Do you think public perception of the economy and political party influence on the economy was a significant factor in this election? Do you think that indicates a decent likelihood of either an economic correction or at least reduced returns at some point in Trump's presidency?

 

With Thanksgiving in the US right around the corner, I found this article about gratitude from a FI perspective. This is from a few years ago, but the message is evergreen.

 

Link is to the Bogleheads forum post where someone posted a link back in August. Before now, you had to call in to request the change, and it could take a few days, but now it's online and allegedly is done the next day.

I don't know when they added this, but I think it was sometime this year because I remember considering it last EOY (that's when I usually rebalance).

Here is a direct link, or you can get there on the website: Transact > Buy & Sell > Convert Vanguard mutual funds to ETFs. You can select either a number of shares or a percent of the total position.

As to why you may want to do this, here are a few reasons:

  • converting shares classes isn't a taxable event (but you can't go ETF -> mutual fund)
  • ETFs have a slighly lower ER (0.01-0.02% in most cases, so not huge)
  • easier if you want to ACATS transfer shares to a different brokerage
  • if you have a mix of ETFs and mutual funds, rebalancing between ETFs is easier, so moving a portion of your mutual funds to ETFs may be worthwhile

Have you taken advantage of Vanguard's mutual fund -> ETF conversion? Do you think you'll use this new online tool?

 

Link is to an older podcast episode, and The Money Guy YouTube channel occasionally talks about FINE instead of FIRE.

Here's the definitions of each:

  • FINE - Financial Independence Next Endeavor
  • FIRE - Financial Independence Retire Early

Basically, FINE focuses on what you plan to do after achieving financial independence, whereas FIRE tends to focus on cessation of working. I always called it FI (leave off the retirement part), but I suppose FINE works.

Anyway, just wondering what everyone else is planning to do once they hit Financial Independence, whether that's retirement or starting something new. I'll leave mine in the comments.

 

This is a link to a spreadsheet to help determine which funds to place into taxable vs tax-advantaged space.

Here is a link to the Bogleheads wiki about tax-efficient fund placement:

If all else is equal, international funds have a small tax advantage over US funds, because they are eligible for the foreign tax credit.

TL;DR:

  • put international funds in taxable and file for the foreign tax credit each year
  • the total difference is like 0.1-0.2%, so optimizing fees may be more impactful than going through this exercise

This wasn't good enough for me, especially as I'm looking into applying a small-cap tilt to my portfolio and really like optimizing things, so I went digging for more information.

Foreign Tax Credit

When you own stocks or otherwise make money in another country, that other country may charge taxes, and the IRS will also charge taxes on any dividends you receive, regardless of source. This ends up in double taxation, because you're being taxed on your dividends by both the US and the foreign country.

To eliminate the double taxation, you can file form 1116 to recoup the foreign taxes by getting a credit (or deduction, but that's rarely better). This Bogleheads wiki doc has more information if you want it.

For many funds (e.g. VXUS), the FTC ends up being something like 0.25%, so if it's in a tax-advantaged account, you'd end up with a 0.25% tax drag on your investments due to foreign taxes you can't recoup.

Tax-efficiency

When deciding where to place funds, you generally want fewer dividends and capital gains in your taxable brokerage accounts and to put the higher dividend-yielding assets in your tax-advantaged accounts. And if you have to have capital gains, you want to make sure your taxable account has mostly qualified capital gains so they're taxed at the long-term capital gains rate instead of the (in most cases) higher income tax rate.

However, the foreign tax credit changes things, since you can only get it if your investments are in a taxable brokerage account. There are cases where you'd prefer a higher total dividend in your taxable account provided the tax credit more than makes up for the difference in total taxes.

Worked example w/ VTI and VXUS

For example, let's say you have equivalent amounts of VXUS and VTI. VXUS has 3.34% total dividend yield whereas VTI has 1.66% (both as-of 2021). So you'd want VXUS in tax advantaged and VTI in taxable, right? Wrong. The total taxes for both are:

  • VXUS - 0.56%, of which 0.26% is recoverable foreign taxes, for a net of 0.30%
  • VTI - 0.32%

Here are two scenarios (assuming you have no state income tax, are in the 22% bracket w/ 15% LTCG):

  • VTI in taxable - VXUS pays 0.26% in foreign taxes, for a total tax bill of 0.26% (0.26% + 0.26) / 2
  • VXUS in taxable - 0.30% net taxes (0.56% - 0.26%), for a total tax bill of 0.15% (0.30% / 2)

So in this case, holding VXUS in taxable saves about 0.11% in total taxes paid.

Added notes

I added some Avantis funds (known for value funds) on here that are interesting:

  • AVUV - US small-cap value fund
  • AVDV - developed markets small-cap value fund
  • AVES - emerging markets value fund

So please, make a copy and mess around with your own figures. You can add some funds as well if you like, just fill in the bolded sections in the "funds" tab and it should work for you.

I'd appreciate a second pair of eyes as well if you feel so inclined.

Anyway, do you bother with adjust fund placement?

 

I generally don't like to make political posts, but this one has an interesting correlation to some of the culture around FI, which is things we can and can't control (i.e. this older post about circle of control, which echoes The Seven Habits of Highly Effective People).

So even if you're not in the US or just aren't interested anymore in the election (i.e. I already voted last week), there's still some interesting points about what the head of government can and can't do, as well as what the rest of government has and doesn't have control over.

Stocks are all over the place right now, and there's a lot of concern about what might happen after the results are announced. I hope this article can bring a little peace since a lot of what the market and news orgs are worried about aren't really things the President has direct control over, and the rest of government will have a delayed impact.

It's certainly an important decision and there will be significant impacts, but sometimes it helps to take a step back and look past the excitement in the news cycle.

 

I found the graph at 10:55 to be especially interesting because it shows how someone with around the median income ($65k) can make it to the lower upper class by retirement through some discipline (10% saved per year).

As a quick TL;DW, here are the median incomes, net worth, and percent of population for each class:

  • lower - $34k income, $3.4k net worth (many are negative) - 25%
  • middle
    • lower - $44k income, $71k net worth - 20%
    • middle - $81k income, $159k net worth - 20%
    • upper - $117k income, $307k net worth - 20%
  • upper
    • lower - $189k income, $747k net worth - 10%
    • upper - $378k income, $2.5M net worth - 5%

Some questions to spark discussion:

  • Do you agree with his breakdown of the economic classes? Why or why not?
  • What strategies do you think someone in each category should take to improve their situation?
  • If you don't mind sharing, what class do you think you're in, and does the breakdown match your experience?
 

I watched this video a couple weeks ago, and while it has nothing to do with FI, I thought it was quite interesting how he divides the economic classes. TL;DW:

  • lower class ($34k income, $3400 net worth) - ~25% of population - truly struggle with emergencies and flirt w/ the federal poverty line; net worth is pretty much nothing (often negative!) due to student debt
  • middle class - three categories (lower, middle, upper)
    • lower ($44k income, $71k net worth) - ~20% population - identify more with middle-middle class and tend to get into more debt than necessary by trying to keep up with the Joneses, but could be financially stable w/ some discipline
    • middle ($81k income, $159k net worth) - ~20% - financially stable, most of assets are in home
    • upper ($117k income, $307k net worth) - ~20% - passive income and compound interest supplement income; some live paycheck-to-paycheck due to lifestyle inflation (i.e. keep up w/ next group), but some can do really well with investments
  • upper class - two categories (lower and upper)
    • lower ($189k income, $747k net worth) - ~10% - specialized professions; most people can get into the lower upper class with discipline (10% savings rate on $65k salary => $787k investments by age 50); little pressure from everyday expenses
    • upper ($378k income, $2.5M net worth) - ~5% - some college grads working as employees, but a lot of these are business owners

At each level, I see two types of people:

  • savers - have enough cash to weather emergencies, tend to have upward mobility
  • everyone else - tend to stay in that economic class, and may regress in retirement; routinely keep up with the Joneses and stay in debt

I personally have been in the middle to upper middle class for most of my career (started in lower middle class, but that quickly changed), and I'm shooting for lower-upper class to upper-upper class in early retirement. I didn't get any inheritance and don't expect any, and I haven't been particularly lucky with my investments (for every major win, I can show an equal major mistake), I've just been very frugal. Some details:

  • car(s) - single car for most of my married life; currently have two at 16 and 17 years old; I do most of my own maintenance
  • house - bought in mid-late 20s and haven't moved
  • savings rate - was 45%, but it's now 35-40%
  • current income - upper-middle class range, might get to lower-upper class if I stick with my career; about half my career was middle-middle class
  • FI target - something like $50-60k spending/year, or $1.5-2M; I plan to be FI around mid-40s, and I intend to keep earning income after FI, but the nature of my work will change

Anyway, I really enjoyed this video, and I think it's interesting to compare myself to the various breakdowns, as well as forward to people who argue that the main thing keeping them down is income (despite being middle-middle class or above).

What do you think? Do you agree with the breakdown? What do you think the "minimum" income range is for someone who'd like to pursue FI?

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