DreadPotato

joined 2 years ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

The dude ran a fucking marathon every day for a year...that is absolutely insane!

 

[SOLVED] I changed the IP of my Adguard yesterday and forgot to update DNS in HA. It updates just fine after I updated the DNS IP in HA. I'm guessing everything else worked outbound, despite the wrong DNS in HA, because I had the correct DNS set it in my router.

I wanted to update my HA this morning but got this error.

Which is a bit weird, because my HA is reachable from outside my home network via nabu casa, and all my integrations relying on internet work just fine. It can even ping outside my home network.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

It's probably just as good. When Starsan was (temporarily) banned in Europe some time ago, a tonne of different brands popped up with similar products, but much cheaper. They all work similarly and I've used several of them without issues.

I'd save the money and buy something else than starsan, it's ridiculously overpriced.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

50F (or 40-60F) is not the most comfortable for...well, anyone i think. Thats pretty chilly for most people, with 60F being the low side of comfortable (both inside and outside). Most universally comfortable temperature range is probably around 70-80F, which is not really "around the middle" in that 0-100 range. 70F is ideal inside temperature, 80F is a nice warm summer day outside.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

Technically the only thing you're allowed to fiddle with, while driving, is what you can operate from the steering wheel. You're not supposed to fiddle with radio, AC etc. from the center console while driving even if it's physical buttons.

I know people don't drive like this, but you're only allowed to take your hands off the steering wheel for changing gears if driving a manual, otherwise it's two hands on there at all times...technically

 

I have trouble fixing the terrible seams I'm getting. I've followed Elli's print tuning guide and calibrated extruder, tuned PA (it's now 0.035) and extrusion multiplier.

I've tried adjusting both retraction length and speed, but it doesn't seem to have much impact. I'm not using "wipe on retract" or "retract on layer change", I only retract if travel distance is longer than 3mm. Retract is 0.3mm @35mm/s.

I've tried reducing PA smooth time too, but this also doesn't seem to have a noticable impact.

I've tried reducing seam gap from the default 10% in Orca all the way down to 0%, but the bad seams persist.

I've tried with "wipe on loops" both disabled and enabled with no difference.

I've tried with both arachne and classic wall generator, no difference.

I've tried different wall orders, inner/outer, inner/outer/inner and outer/inner, all with the same bad seams.

Filament in the picture is matte PLA, it is without doubt dry and generally prints well aside from the seams. It's stored vacuum sealed with silica, and I use a filament dryer to dry if I suspect wet filament.

I'm running out of ideas for where to tweak to get a decent result.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

Bruh, it's not gambling if you know you're gonna win *taps forehead meme*

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

They also don't ship with the yoke by default anymore, the default is a regular round one and have been for a while.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Well that's pretty neat