Dull Men's Club

I just got one EXACTLY to not overtorque things...guess I should have made sure that this mechanic I went to had one before I got one lol...

Yeah, a friend does car work but is an air gun and impact driver type. He broke about a 1 inch bolt that was holding some torsion suspension to the frame.

Lol.

How do you go from needing a new oil pan to needing a new car tho, lol

We need to start outdoor photos of people holding their torque wrenches, being more popular than pictures of guys holding their guns.

I moved to ag country recently and all I know is fuck Deere. Thank you for confirming my hate towards them

Unless it involves warranty on something expensive, we just do it ourselves and if we need a CANbus address programmed in, I call them out to do that for the minimum charge. If I do get them to do something, I check it after pretty closely.

Had a guy out to install a turbo on our 7630; he hadn't tightened the collar for the oil supply, if you can believe it. I did talk to the service manager about that one, that was pretty egregious. Like really, on a turbo, keeping that oil bearing pressured is probably the only critical thing to watch for.

Considered one of those a few times. I have an air wench from stanley. The only tool I regretted buying. Could not even dent butter on a warm sunny day (/s). Bought an wider hose, modded the wrench.... much better but still not good.

Maybe time to go electric then ......

bringing them the wheel detached from my car

I do that whenever I can. It's a bit more work, but saves the irritation (although anger is probably closer). for things can get damaged with over tightening. But some jobs they take off one or more wheels and if it's not the shop in my town, I go over the wheel bolts.

Costco only uses torque wrenches, and you have to come back after a day to get torque checked again.

There are two possible solutions for fucked-up oil drainplug threads:

A) Drill the hole out slightly larger, tap new threads into it, and install a slightly larger drain plug.

B) Replace the oil pan entirely.

Option A isn't always possible, especially if the oil pan is curvy, very thin, or made of plastic. And either option requires removing the drain pan from the vehicle and reinstalling one with a new gasket. (You don't want metal shavings getting into the engine when you're drilling and tapping.)

If you end up rounding off the head there are a few options. They make special sockets that can grab onto a rounded off bolt. You can try to hammer on a slightly smaller socket. You could drill the head off of the bolt and use an extractor to pull the remnants out, but you risk breaking off the extractor and then you're in a real pickle. You could also weld a nut onto the bolt, but not recommended with a full oil pan. You can also take a hammer and chisel and try to get the bolt to turn using it at an angle, not recommended if you have an aluminum oil pan. You could also just buy an oil extractor and pull the oil through the dipstick tube.

In my case I had rounded off the bolt head in a few spots with an open ended wrench after a few tries not realizing it was going to be stubborn. Had a hard time getting the correct sized close ended wrench on with the warped sides. Went up a size by switching to metric and getting a decently good grip. That stripped it further, but warped the head even more so I was able to get the right sized closed wrench on it with a few "gentle" taps of a hammer. It juuuuuuust barely came off. The head was mutilated to hell.

I've seen people use a grinder to grind down the sides of the head and use a smaller wrench to try again. Or cut a plus in the head and try a screwdriver. But that's assuming the head hasn't popped off yet.

Impact driver, but the bolt could snap.

Actual oil pan bolt torque is lower than people think, but a fresh crush washer should be used every time.

Now Fords use plastic oil pans, which should be fun with those gorillas.