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US electrical requirements for fridges are somewhat overprovisioned for food safety requirements, the fridge is the most important thing to power as you say. It's easy to not notice when your fridge has lost power and US food safety law says that 4 hours in a fridge without power is unsafe, so the circuit is arranged where the breaker should never turn off in normal operation. (This is a relatively recent addition to the electrical code, most older houses will have the fridge on a mixed circuit, but that's the reasoning)
I'm not sure what the typical current draw for a US fridge is but they are much larger than you're used to. The fridges currently for sale have around 18 to 30 cubic feet interiors (most houses I've seen have the larger end of that range), and current draw increases with size. Peak draw for refrigeration is about 4x the typical running draw so I imagine the larger ones do come close to that 15 amp rating when they turn on.
I would be shocked if it was over even 1000W at peak, but I suppose it’s over provisioned to deal with the very very brief peak when the compressor kicks on.
We have large fridges here. It’s not the volume that matters when we’re looking at peak draw, it’s the compressor’s power rating. The same compressor can cool both, just at different duty cycles.
FWIW there’s probably a lot more auxiliary power being pulled for things like water dispensers and that kind of thing for your fridges. And of course the Palantir-enabled AI Smart Fridge Miner features. In case any of these pretentious commies eats any food correlated with support for the wrong ethnic cleansing victims.
It’s likely the fridges we buy here are simpler older designs with less fragile components, and stuff that runs on lower power. Most people here are not going for the smart fridges. There are a few inverter fridges on the market, but I prefer going with simpler older designs for what should be obvious reasons.