this post was submitted on 06 Jan 2026
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Full brims, mouse ears, with glue, without glue, higher bed temperature, lower bed temperature, flat base, concentric cutout base - whatever I try, I seem to be getting wank adhesion, major warping, and ultimately this shitshow.

Dry PLA, warm room, no draught, plate cleaned with IPA. I'm going to fucking punch this thing in its stupid fucking face.

Edit: Prevailing advice very much seems to be to bust out the Fairy liquid and give it a good scrub, so I'll try that. It's a Kobra Neo 2 so is auto-levelling, so I can't piss around with any of that stuff (as far as I know). Another quick question while I think about it, does everyone always print onto the bed at ~60°C? Because Orca Slicer's default for a textured PEI plate is 45°C, which seems mad. I think I tried it once and it was shite so turned it back up to 60.

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[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 2 points 6 days ago

does everyone always print onto the bed at ~60°C?

That depends entirely on the result you get and the Filament you use. Also, keep in mind that whatever you set your bed temperature to and what the printer reports, very likely isn't what you actually print on. For example, on my Ender 5 Plus, I have a glass bed and had to set my printer to 75°C while on my Voron 2.4, I can simply set it to 66°C and get the surface temperature to around 60°C.

which means that you need to measure the temperature on the surface of the printer and not rely on what the printer is reporting (unless you actually measured the temperature and can guess the actual temperature). The more mass that the print has to heat up, the longer it will take for the print surface to actually reach that temperature.

Personally, I aim for around 60-65°C for the print surface for PLA. I always had good adhesion for my prints at that temperature.