3DPrinting

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Fuck. My. Life. 🙃 (i.imgur.com)

submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by la508@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

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Full brims, mouse ears, with glue, without glue, higher bed temperature, lower bed temperature, flat base, concentric cutout base - whatever I try, I seem to be getting wank adhesion, major warping, and ultimately this shitshow.

Dry PLA, warm room, no draught, plate cleaned with IPA. I'm going to fucking punch this thing in its stupid fucking face.

Edit: Prevailing advice very much seems to be to bust out the Fairy liquid and give it a good scrub, so I'll try that. It's a Kobra Neo 2 so is auto-levelling, so I can't piss around with any of that stuff (as far as I know). Another quick question while I think about it, does everyone always print onto the bed at ~60°C? Because Orca Slicer's default for a textured PEI plate is 45°C, which seems mad. I think I tried it once and it was shite so turned it back up to 60.

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[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

3 Thoughts as I had simular Issues!

Is the Bed Leveling correct? A Loose Print Head can give false results, big issue I had once with my P1S.

Try Changing the width and Hight of the First Layer to smaller Values, no clue Why, but it Fixed this kinda issue before for me!

In Software, Is the Model Properly put on the Ground and not floating? Happened to me before, since Supports where turned off I didn't notice it

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago

Try Changing the width and Hight of the First Layer to smaller Values, no clue Why, but it Fixed this kinda issue before for me!

reducing the width of the first layer seems counter intuitive to me. usually adhession is improved by using widths wider than the nozzle since the plastic has to get smooshiefied into the surface. I don't know there's much difference on the first layer 125%-200% of the nozzle width, but I find going over definitely helps. (I use 150% for stronger parts in general.)

or at least that's been my experience. nozzle height/z offset would be the first thing for me to check, but PLA shouldn't be warping that bad, IMO, so there might be some thermal issues as well.