SolarDIY
SolarDIY is a vibrant community dedicated to embracing the power of solar energy. Here, we encourage you to showcase your ingenious ideas, innovative projects, and inspiring stories, while also seeking valuable advice, fresh ideas, and fostering meaningful connections.
Our passion lies in witnessing the remarkable achievements of individuals who have harnessed the potential of solar energy. Whether you have successfully wired your entire house with solar panels, created a portable solar-powered generator, or crafted an efficient solar pool heater, we are eager to learn from your experiences and celebrate your accomplishments.
Join us on this empowering journey as we explore the endless possibilities of solar energy and inspire one another to make a positive impact on our environment and our lives. Together, we can unlock the full potential of solar power and shape a sustainable future.
Share your DIY solar projects, exchange knowledge, and let your creativity shine!
view the rest of the comments
— Here’s a photo of my installation with voltage drops labeled at 60 amps draw only. I don’t have voltage drops measured for the 300A draw because I don’t want to leave it running that way for long.
I wouldn't be that surprised if it was fine. Much of the time inline devices like this are designed to sink heat into the cables, and I've definitely seen some fuses that get pretty warm from being run more than 50% of their rating. They kind of have to in order to work; it's not like the fuse can remain perfectly cool at 300,350,399A and then immediately melt at 400.
That does make sense.
Also explains why the 400A-rated ANL use holder posts are swatted in giant plugs of steel I guess.
But then I still need to worry about sinking heat into the battery terminal with my fuse attached right there :/
I don’t know how much heat the battery can take focused in just that one small spot..
It might be worth putting a very short length of cable between the fuse and battery post. IDK I'm just a guy