this post was submitted on 01 Jun 2024
6 points (100.0% liked)

Photography

5375 readers
73 users here now

A community to post about photography:

We allow a wide range of topics here including; your own images, technical questions, gear talk, photography blogs etc. Please be respectful and don't spam.

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

Taken on a small group of Islands in the Oslo fjord, called Hvasser. A 15 meter peice of fabric playing in the wind, scanned right to left in 21 seconds. Got really lucky with the clouds this time, allowing a single beam of sunlight in as a highlight.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] [email protected] 1 points 6 months ago (5 children)

I managed to change the image by just shining a torch into it during the calibration and the scan. This is exciting, I might be making progress :-)

[–] [email protected] 2 points 6 months ago (4 children)

Thats really Cool! Thanks for letting me know, this might be the impetus I needed to go back to working on the 220 camera!

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 months ago (3 children)

So, when I say "change the image", I mean the torch does affect the calibration, in the sense that I get different patterns of stripes based on the position of the torch, but it's still just outputting stripes.

Here are two scans I made by waving the torch around randomly during the calibration, then resting the torch on the glass.

For some reason each pixel is just outputing the same brightness for the whole duration of the scan, except for that black spot where the torch is, which is weird.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 months ago (1 children)
[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

@Leavingoldhabits Hi again, I've started playing with an Arduino and a light sensor. At the moment all it can do is read the LED light source from the flatbed scanner during the calibration sequence, and record the results.

The N650U has three stages of calibration:

  1. It starts with the LED fluctuating between ambient brightness (860) and full brightness (700), then turns off briefly (860)
  2. Steady increase from ambient to full brightness.
  3. Steady decrease from full brightness back to ambient.

The next step will be to introduce some kind of timestamp for each moment of the recording. Then the hard bit will be to shine a light source onto the sensor so simulate a proper calibration.

I haven't recorded the calibration on the LiDe 110 yet, but I will. I didn't realize it when I modified it, but the book says it will scan at 2400x4800dpi which works out to over 550mp for an A4 scan, which dwarfs the 20mp of my mirrorless, lol.

load more comments (1 replies)
load more comments (1 replies)
load more comments (1 replies)